Sabrina

I tried on the mock-up yesterday, so you get pictures! The stays fit well, which is not a surprise because they're based on my other stays that fit well. I'm not sold on the underbust aspect of things though. I did feel well supported in this, even with just the shift. (I tried it on with the shift and added a tank top for picture taking.) But I don't think I'm getting enough lift for the fashionable shape of the era nor the right bust shape. I'm thinking this underbust thing might actually work better for someone who has more of a bust. And that being squished in the lower part of the bust would give more lift and cleavage for someone with a smaller bust.

(Also, this looks like some sort of dirndl/wench outfit. lol)

Compare with this lady who is smaller busted but with a very perky bust.


At this point, I'm not really sure what to do, whether I should keep pursuing this underbust thing, try a different style of stays from this era, or actually finish some of my unfinished projects that need to be finished. Part of the problem is that even though I am feeling inspired by costumes/clothing, I don't actually feel like doing the work and can't settle on one particular project that I will actually complete. Motivation is weird. I feel like I've gone back to the way I used to sew like 5 years ago before I started getting decently productive.

I'm participating in the short stays sew-along online and decided that I was going to get a paper pattern figured out last week. It's not a lot, but I've been really busy. I was inspired by the underbust stays in the Kyoto Collection and these other cupped ones from the Met.


To start, I took out my 1780 stays and traced them around the top, stopping above the waist, around the level of the Kyoto ones by my guess. I might still shorten them more, but haven't decided yet. I added some width to the back because I want these to be front closing and my 1780 stays are back closing. I also made an estimate about where to scoop out the front to make these underbust. I'll refine that in the mock-up stage. Theoretically, with the underbust thing, the shift should act like the cups in all the cupped stays from this era, but I'm not sure how that will work out yet. That's the interesting part!

I also made the part for the straps wider and more defined, since that seems to be how these types of stays go. Scooped out the top of the back a little too. I haven't decided on the seamline(s) yet either. As you can see, there was a lot of drawing and re-drawing when I was designing my pattern. We'll see how it goes. This is a busy week, but I'm hoping to get a mock-up done either this week or next week. I am hopeful that making the actual thing also won't take too long; there aren't many eyelets or bones in this style.