mala_14 | Entries tagged with 1883 plaid and velveteen ensemble

OK, this is really late, but I've been busy and preoccupied. I really like doing these recaps though. And I sewed some things last year that I am really proud of and that I love.

To start with, I finished up my 1883 plaid and velveteen ensemble. This involved making the skirts, a bonnet, and a faux fur capelet and muff.

Then it was time to get started on sewing for CoCo. I figured it would be smart to start with the stuff for the Gala first so I'd have that done and out of the way and not have to worry about it. It's a good thing I did. It took me forever. I made a lobster tail bustle for the first time. The gown involved an underskirt, a bodice, and an overskirt. My work was documented by the talented

llyrafantasyfae and I'm so happy to have nice pictures of this gown, like this photo below:

Undocumented was a white Regency petticoat that I made to go under my striped chemise dress. It has tucks at the bottom and twill tape straps.

I also made an ensemble to go with the suffragette group at CoCo. It involved a green silk-cotton underdress, a lace and net overdress, and a REALLY big hat.

The rest of the year was kind of a bust for sewing. I made my boyfriend a pair of pj pants that I never took picture of, but that involved some creative piecing because I hadn't bought enough yardage. I also have most of a pair of grey shorts put together that will probably get finished some time this year.

Things that worked well for 2017:

upping my game by focusing on details in order to get a better overall look, this included making time for accessories, hair, and trim
trying out draping to figure out the 1883 plaid overskirt
getting some good pictures of some of the things I made

Thoughts for 2018:

keep on trying new things with sewing, new techniques, new materials, etc.
get a couple of solid bodice patterns figured out, ones that fit really nicely and that I can just use whenever I want to make something from that era
get some 18th century things made, especially finishing up these stays and other undergarments and making some gowns and millinery to go over them
make some modern clothes, preferably of a professional-looking nature for when I have to look like a grown up

As promised, here are some pictures of my latest sewing. I should really call this outfit the KatherJen ensemble or something because it's totally a rip-off of

koshka_the_cat and

jenthompson 's outfits from some years back. I used all the instructions from Katherine's website for her c.1880 Bustle Bodice, which she made a beautiful version of in brown velveteen. And I copied Jen's plaid skirts with solid bodice and fur accessories: shoulder cape and muff, all of which you can see here. I guess I have nothing to say other than that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery and I really love the things that they made. :)

The capelet still needs hooks and eyes. I also have to say that sewing the faux fur was the bane of my existence. I don't know how it managed to be so squidgy but it moved everywhere at once and all my seams are wonky and ridiculous. No more faux fur for some time.

I have the pieces for a new collar cut out to dress up my print polonaise and I still need to make a hat.

So I finished the velveteen bodice on New Year's. Then I got started on the skirts. So far, I have the skirt mostly put together and the overskirt cut out. I just need to pleat the waist of the underskirt, assemble the overskirt, and get them together in the same waistband. Then this one will be done! I decided to try draping the overskirt to figure it out and took some pictures.

The underskirt plaid is supposed to be pleated, but my pleats aren't really lying right. Oh well. The pleated plaid is attached to a knee-length skirt of brown cotton poplin. The overskirt is a rectangle at the back and a bias-cut trapezoid at the front, pleated up at some strategic points.

I'm hoping to get this mostly finished today, maybe with the fastenings to do tomorrow. But right now I need to finish writing my end-of-term papers! I can get the jacket and bonnet done in less than two weeks, right? ;p

Even though the faculty association is on strike and my classes are cancelled, I am still busy trying to keep up with schoolwork and get things done so I don't have a ton of stuff to catch up on when classes resume. However, I'm still finding bits of time here and there to work on sewing and knitting. I had a sewing session/stitch-and-bitch on Sunday with my local Victorian costuming pals from Victorian at Heart. I took the opportunity to get started overcasting the seam allowances on my 1883 velveteen bodice. You can see some the seams that have been finished:
P1020995

Don't worry; it has sleeves. They'll be attached once I'm done overcasting everything. I still need to cut out things like collar, tabs, and facings. Anyways, it's going really slowly, but it's going.

Knitting is slightly more productive. I've been knitting while watching hockey games. I finished the first ball of yarn and it knitted up to be 11" long and about 23" wide. I was aiming for 18" wide, but obviously cast on too many stitches. By the time I figured it out, there was no way I was going to rip out all the stitches and start over. So it's going to be bit wider than needed. Not really a problem, since I think it will be a perfectly fine length.
P1020994

When I stretch out the knitting (not to its farthest length, but what I think is a goodly amount), I can get about 17" in length. And considering I bought six balls of yarn, the finished length after blocking should be about 8.5 ft. Not 9, but still pretty long. So I'm glad I don't need to worry about buying extra anymore! :)
P1020993

Or at least cutting. I got the velveteen cut out yesterday (aside from the collar and tabs). Hoping to the get thing assembled today and then spend some time over the weekend whipstitching seam allowances. As for the cloud, it's just under 6" now. Looks like 2 repeats = 1 inch. I am a bit worried that I didn't buy enough yarn though. A question for those who are real knitters, will I get any sort of extra length after blocking? (It's knitted with a lacy pattern, every 6th row is a YO, K2tog, and it's 100% Shetland wool.)

I don't have enough of the green velveteen to cut out my bodice. Crap. I got the lining cut out though. This means that I'm going to have to make a trip to the fabric store sometime and get some velveteen. I am thinking black, since that seems to be the standard for this style of bodice based on fashion plates and

koshka_the_cat's extant bodice. In addition to the style (with tabs), I am also copying the construction. So, thanks Katherine, for putting all the info online! I've been wanting to copy this bodice for a long time. :)

I guess the green will become a winter hat? I'm kind of glad it worked out this way because I was having trouble deciding what colour I was going to go with for the hat. Now it'll be green, maybe with gold or black trim. Like this girl's bonnet from LACMA:

This wasn't only a kid's style of bonnet though. Some adult versions from the Met:

I like all the velvet though, especially the scrunchy edging. So I'll probably be making an all velvet version with ridiculous bow on top.

My 1867 print dress is just about done. I made a collar and cuffs the other day and got them tacked on to the dress yesterday. The only thing left is hooks and eyes. I think I am going to do hooks with thread eyes. I gave up on the idea of overcasting the armscye seam allowances because the piping makes it kind of weird and I don't want to have to deal with it. So yeah, just hooks and eyes left.

I just cast on 103 stitches for my nubia/Canadian cloud. I have the Jamieson and Smith Shetland Supreme 2-ply laceweight and am using size 7/4.5mm needles. So far I've knitted one row. I think I am going to do a 4 row pattern: 3 rows of knit and 1 row of yarn over-knit 2 together. I tried some samples of just Knit and YO,K2tog, but I think it was too holey for the larger needles. I was also trying out some even larger needles and thought it just looked too open-weave-y. I think these ones are big enough.

Since the 1867 dress is so close to being finished and today is the day I don't have to go to school, I am about to head off to cut out my 1883 green velveteen bodice. I am so ready to be working on something new. This print dress has taken forever. I am hoping the velveteen bodice won't take too long, especially since I already have my tried and true 1880 bodice pattern! I'm going to shorten the back about 1/2" to get rid of the slight wrinkles that I've been having with it. Maybe I can even get it done by November! (HA, let's not get carried away. ;p)

Got my apartment stuff sorted out (keys on the way to me and bill paid) and thinking about other things, like what is on the sewing docket for the coming year. I've mentioned my projects before but I'm kind of sad that all of my upcoming projects are already decided. I like it being a bit open-ended. But since the reason for these projects being determined is the fact that I have specific things to wear these to, it's not really a bad thing. So here are the projects and their different elements, just to keep it organized:

1. 1895 ensemble: ~~petticoat~~, corset cover, skirt, blouse, bow tie, straw boater, (jacket?)
2. 2 baby quilts
3. 1867 outfit: corset, crinoline, petticoat, (chemise?), print dress, hat, shawl
4. 1883 plaid kilted outfit: kilted underskirt, overskirt, velveteen bodice (I hope 1m is enough for this, if now, I have a cotton-silk suiting I could dye green that would work), (collar?), (cuffs?)
5. 1883 outerwear: coat, faux fur short cape, faux fur muff, faux fur hat, nubia
6. Modern: grey shorts

It's a lot of items for me to make in a year, but last year I made 3 ensembles/dresses for Costume College, so I think I can get it done. And when these are finished, I have some others that I want to get done after (maybe for the Francaise Dinner or Costume College in 2017).

1. Painted 1780s gown: bum pad, petticoat, petticoat, gown, wig, cap/hat
2. Lilac silk and cream net 1871 evening gown: petticoat, skirt, overskirt, bodice
3. 1816 ensemble: print dress or shortgown/skirt combo, cap/hat, apron, ruff/chemisette
4. 1790 riding habit: shirt, cravat, petticoat, waistcoat, jacket, hat
OR 4. 1908 ensemble: net guimpe, green jumper dress, (hat?)
OR 4. 1920s one-hour dress: lavender polka dot day dress, hat
OR 4. Yellow linen-rayon 1930s/40s something
OR 4. 1916 outfit: petticoat, corset cover, striped skirt, blouse, hat
OR 4. 1869 burnt orange dress: dress, overdress,
5. Modern: pants, (blouse?), (wool-cashmere blazer?) (birds voile dress?)

( Other potential sewing )

The Dreamstress has the HSM 2016 challenges posted. I may be participating in this one. I have so many things that need sewing this year. Surely, I can make them fit the challenges.

January - Procastination: the petticoat, corset cover, and skirt for my 1895 ensemble
February - Tucks & Pleating: 1895 shirtwaist will have tucks to fit the front shoulder
March - Protection: maybe a hat? or I'll have my 1864 knitted shawl finished, or the jacket for the 1895 ensemble
April - Gender-Bender: if I have time to make the jacket for my 1895 ensemble, or the hat which will likely be a straw boater, or the bow tie I'm planning on having for this outfit
May - Holes: a lacy cloud/nubia? (unlikely that I'd get all 3 yards knitted by this time though), 1860s corset?
June - Travel: 1790s straw hat?
July - Monochrome: 1860s corset or crinoline or petticoat, all will be white
August - Pattern: 1867 cotton print dress
September - Historicism: 1867 bonnet (lots of these bonnets have names like Marie Antoinette and Pompadour)
October - Heroes: 1883 Laura Ingalls-style bustle dress with plaid kilted skirt and velveteen bodice (plaid bustle always makes me think of the later Little House books)
November - Red: Does maroon count as red? Cuz then it'll be my bustle coat. If not, then no idea
December - Special Occasion: faux fur cape, hat, and muff

Obviously, I'll have to figure out some of these when the time comes. I seem to have 3 major ensembles on the schedule for this year: 1895, 1867, and 1883. Other things that need sewing: 2 baby quilts. Maybe some modern clothes. Other things I'd like to work on, but probably won't get to: 18th century and late-Regency stuff.

I have a variety of things that I want to sew in the coming year and a half. Some of them have deadlines or events, which is good for making sure I get things done. I'm excited about getting to try new eras as well as having eras that I can now do fairly comfortably. I still need to make more underthings, which is sort of a downer, but I am looking forward to having them in the wardrobe. So here are the projects that you should be seeing in the not-too-distant future:

Must sew:

1895 Tailor-made Gown for a conference presentation in April: drawers, petticoat, corset cover, shirtwaist, skirt, jacket, hat (I have most of the supplies for this one, after a trip to the fabric store today. Still need something for the hat and maybe other small things that I will figure out as I go along.)

1867 Cotton Print for living history celebrations for the 150th anniversary of Confederation: corset, hoop, petticoat, petticoat, dress, shawl, bonnet (I need all kinds of things for this one, like all the supplies for the hoop, busk, cotton for the petticoats, buttons, and bonnet supplies.)

1883 Little House Winter Dress: kilted skirt, overskirt, bodice (Yay for having all the correct undies for this! I am using my blue and green brushed cotton plaid for the skirts and my green dyed velveteen which burn testing makes me think is cotton for the bodice. The velveteen was originally supposed to be for my GoT Tyrell outfit. I wanted black velveteen for this project, but I have the green on hand and it matches, so it's getting used. Also need buttons.)

1883 Little House Winter Outerwear: coat, cape, muff (I can use the burgundy wool I got upsold on in London to make the coat, with a hood I think. Need to get some faux fur for a cape and muff, as well as whatever else that will require.)

2 Baby Quilts for friends' babies being born at the end of August and early December

Bonus sewing or projects that may also appear in the coming year or so:

1820 Blue Print for living history: shortgown and petticoat a la koshka_the_cat or a morning gown, chemisette, cap (Living history does lots of Regency era, so would be useful to have this, especially now that I have my quick 'n' dirty stays. Have all the supplies for this.)

1790 Riding Habit: shirt, skirt, waistcoat, jacket (Now that I know how to make death head buttons, I can make buttons for this. Have all the other materials as well as correct undies.)

1916 Ensemble for living history celebration of 100th anniversary of women's suffrage in Manitoba: skirt, shirtwaist (I have fabric and the undies for this.)

1780 Painted Gown: stays, bumpad, petticoat, skirt, gown (I have almost all the stuff for this. Would be very labour intensive project with all the painting. No real occasion to wear though. Maybe for Quebec City?)

1870s Little House Winter Dress: petticoat, skirt, overskit, bodice, mantle (I have some possible fabrics for this, but would still need to buy more to really make it. Definitely a maybe.)

1950s playsuit: shorts, skirt, top (I have all the stuff for this, but not really an occasion. Except for the shorts; I need more and better shorts in my life.)

Retro Yellow Dot Sundress (I have all the stuff for this, minus zipper. For wearing in regular life.)

(Modern) Birds Voile Sundress (I have all the stuff for this, minus zipper. For wearing in regular life.)

Smooth Sailing Trousers (I have some plum plaid that I could make a pretty awesome pair of trousers out of. For wearing in regular life.)

1779 Striped Polonaise: same underthings as 1780 Painted Gown, skirt, polonaise (I have the striped silk but need lots of silk organza for this to make it froofy. No real occasion to wear though. Maybe for Quebec City?)

1871 Lavender Silk and Cream Net Gown: petticoat, skirt, overskirt, dinner bodice, ballgown bodice (I have the lavender silk but need lots of cotton net for this. No real occasion to wear though. But I want something FROOFY!)

I have fabric for other projects that are languishing in the stash, but these ones make the (not-so-)short-list either because I have an occasion for them or because I have all the supplies (or because I just got the fabric for them and am thus super excited about them because they're new and shiny!). Links go to Pinterest boards.

Whew! That's enough!