Stays mock-up pictures

[mala_14]

I tried on the mock-up yesterday, so you get pictures! The stays fit well, which is not a surprise because they're based on my other stays that fit well. I'm not sold on the underbust aspect of things though. I did feel well supported in this, even with just the shift. (I tried it on with the shift and added a tank top for picture taking.) But I don't think I'm getting enough lift for the fashionable shape of the era nor the right bust shape. I'm thinking this underbust thing might actually work better for someone who has more of a bust. And that being squished in the lower part of the bust would give more lift and cleavage for someone with a smaller bust.

(Also, this looks like some sort of dirndl/wench outfit. lol)

Compare with this lady who is smaller busted but with a very perky bust.


At this point, I'm not really sure what to do, whether I should keep pursuing this underbust thing, try a different style of stays from this era, or actually finish some of my unfinished projects that need to be finished. Part of the problem is that even though I am feeling inspired by costumes/clothing, I don't actually feel like doing the work and can't settle on one particular project that I will actually complete. Motivation is weird. I feel like I've gone back to the way I used to sew like 5 years ago before I started getting decently productive.

Comments

[elizabeth_mn]

It looks awesome! I have to admit I'm surprised by how lifted and secure everything looks. And it seems like you have great separation in the center. But yeah, if you're doing regency, it's always possible to have MORE lift!

[mala_14]

Thanks! I was surprised too. I kind of jumped around a little, and felt fine. And yeah, it's the lift part that I struggle with. It's probably worth experimenting with different structural things to see what works best for me.

[ktlovely]

I think these look fantastic! Particularly for the 90s transitional stuff you see with a much more gentle bustline than the later 00s-10s stuff. Some of Vigee Lebrun's portraits in particular look similar to me, with that very natural but contained look.

[mala_14]

Thanks! You make a really good point. I think that part of my problem is that this period was so transitional, so it's hard to figure out what looks "right" because different looks were happening at the same time. I'm probably going to keep experimenting until I figure out what I like best, so I might not have a finished garment any time soon, but it will be an interesting journey. :)

[danabren]

I have no suggestions for the front, but the back looks great.

[mala_14]

Thanks! The back seamlines on Regency things are often really aesthetically pleasing, so I was trying to do something similar.

[mandie_rw]

I think it's looking great! As a fellow small-bust-costumer, though, I know what you mean about the lift (i.e. I've never actually managed to make a pair of regency stays that do the lift-and-separate look, so annoying).

I did some experimenting with undergarments for a mervilleuse-type of late 1790s dress (that, ahem, never actually got finished, ahem), and I found the same thing as you - that some compression in the lower part of the bust gives more of that slightly-lifted-but-not-full-on-squished look I was aiming for. I ended up putting in the world's tiniest bust gusset to try and keep that rounded but supported look, and it was cut just the slightest bit above the breast root, but enough to contain...maybe a fifth of the breast tissue?

Not the world's easiest thing to explain in words (shockingly it wasn't a thing I wanted to post pictures on the internet of haha), but short version is, I think you're on the right track! :D

[mala_14]

Thanks! That's really interesting and makes perfect sense! I was actually considering doing something similar, so it's really cool to hear what works for other people with similar body types. My current Regency corset does a good job, but the straps on it are uncomfortable so I don't really like wearing it and want a new one. I am also thinking about doing one of those corset elastique type deals. Katherine showed me a bunch of pictures of her in dresses with her various different corsets underneath and the one with the springs gives the sort of look that I think I was thinking of.