So many Regency questions

[mala_14]

As I embark on some Regency projects, namely stays and a gown c.1809-14, a couple of questions have arisen that I cannot solve on my own, even through extensive staring at extant garments various other types of research. I thus put these questions to more knowledgeable minds than mine:

1. What fabric should I use for my stays? I am planning on using cotton sateen for the outer layer and am debating between twill and broadcloth for the inner layer. Both seem plausible materials. Obviously one is slightly more substantial than the other, but I'm not certain that I necessarily need the extra thickness. I'm making short stays like these: http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.ca/2013/05/short-stays-studies-schnurleib-studien.html She uses twill and glazed cotton.(Maybe I just answered my own question there?)'


2. To bib-front or not to bib-front? On my gown, I assume that a bib front would be more convenient in terms of dressing myself. But most gowns of the style I am looking at have drawstring fastenings in the back. I just don't know what I want for this one.


3. Skirt pattern shapes: rectangular or shaped? For reference, I want a flat (not gathered) front and a gathered back. I plan on embroidering the hem and up the front. Looking at extant garments and patterns, both straight and gored skirts seem to have been around at this time. I'm inclined to think that rectangular panels would be easier, but I'd like to know what people think of skirt shapes and such.

Thoughts? Thanks!

Comments

[nuranar.livejournal.com]

1. Honestly, either would work fine, especially since you're pretty slender and those stays don't do a whole lot of re-shaping. If you're doing the bias stays, twill will probably be a little sturdier. And the heavier material will hold up longer, if you're planning to use these for years.

2. There's absolutely nothing wrong with back-fastening; looking at originals, it does seem to be more common. The only objection against them is if you'll be consistently getting dressed by yourself. Buttons are just barely possible; ties, very difficult.

3. I think rectangular are more common on early 1800s dresses, and are often gathered all around instead of smooth front. Keep in mind, too, that even the shaped skirts just mix shaped panels with rectangular ones; they're not entirely gored. Also, IMHO either gathering around or some shaping (or a side pleat) is necessary for the skirt to hang gracefully. Unless your figure is extremely column-like, with a stayed underbust measurement that's the same as or bigger than your hip with petticoat, a totally rectangular front half is likely to pull or drag funny. Rectangular side panels give the flat front panel the ease to go over the hip. If that's not a concern, a rectangular skirt should be fine.

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

Thank you for the input! It's really helpful.

[quincy134.livejournal.com]

I love bib front dresses, but that's just me. There are so many different types of fastenings seen during this period!

I usually do rectangular, and then gather all of the back and part of the front, leaving a space at the center front ungathered. That seems to hang nicely for my shape.

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

When I think about doing fittings, I am definitely far more inclined toward a bib-front. It's interesting to hear what people use for skirt shapes and then to go and look at how the dress looks. Thanks!

[girliegirl32786.livejournal.com]

1. I've successfully done a pair of stays with just two layers of cotton sateen. They've held up very will with little stretching, give good support, and aren't too hot.

2.I've done both bib front and back closing and I say bib front all the way! Nothing beats being able to easily dress yourself, not to mention I find fitting front closing things much easier.

3. I'd say it depends on the skirt shape you want. I agree with nuranar if you want a skirt that sweeps in back you will need some slightly shaped panels at least. The skirt on this dress is lightly gathered in front, but I still shaped the skirt panels to help the skirt fall more gracefully.

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

Thanks for all the info! Really good point about front closures and fitting. It's great having the benefit of other people's experiences.