mala_14 | So many Regency questions (Reply)

As I embark on some Regency projects, namely stays and a gown c.1809-14, a couple of questions have arisen that I cannot solve on my own, even through extensive staring at extant garments various other types of research. I thus put these questions to more knowledgeable minds than mine:

What fabric should I use for my stays? I am planning on using cotton sateen for the outer layer and am debating between twill and broadcloth for the inner layer. Both seem plausible materials. Obviously one is slightly more substantial than the other, but I'm not certain that I necessarily need the extra thickness. I'm making short stays like these: http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.ca/2013/05/short-stays-studies-schnurleib-studien.html She uses twill and glazed cotton.(Maybe I just answered my own question there?)'

To bib-front or not to bib-front? On my gown, I assume that a bib front would be more convenient in terms of dressing myself. But most gowns of the style I am looking at have drawstring fastenings in the back. I just don't know what I want for this one.

Skirt pattern shapes: rectangular or shaped? For reference, I want a flat (not gathered) front and a gathered back. I plan on embroidering the hem and up the front. Looking at extant garments and patterns, both straight and gored skirts seem to have been around at this time. I'm inclined to think that rectangular panels would be easier, but I'd like to know what people think of skirt shapes and such.

Thoughts? Thanks!