Sheer Bustle

[mala_14]

Now that my stays are almost done (tried them on yesterday to measure strap length and hoping to get straps made today, pictures from yesterday are forthcoming), I've been giving some serious thought to my next project: a sheer early bustle dress. It's going to be made in phases for convenience. All together I need:

• corset cover
• white bustle petticoat
• bodice
• skirt
• overskit
• peplum

However, since I have my lavender silk skirt from my ballgown, I can get away with not making an underskirt or petticoat and still have a wearable outfit, just in case I don't get things finished in time (planning on have a foofy bustle picnic with elizabeth_mn in late July). This leaves me with the corset cover, bodice, overskirt, and peplum. The corset cover is because I want to do a looser, gathered bodice and can't quite wrap my head around how to do that plus have a fitted half-high lining. Plus, then I have a corset cover for when I do other sheer things in the future. I'm basing my design on this lovely from c.1869 at the Musee D'Orsay:

I like the split overskirt and the v-neck bodice and where the ruffles are. Mine will have a peplum thingie for some extra jeuje on the bustle area, because isn't that the point of bustle? I need a new bodice pattern, but I'm probably going to start with my 1880 bodice pattern and straighten the CF, alter some of the seam lines, drop the shoulder a bit, and cut it off at the natural waist, as well as make the minor fitting tweaks that I know it needs. Shouldn't be too difficult. <-- *famous last words*

I have many yards of white cotton voile and cotton lace left over from the ballgown, so that's what I'm using. At one time in my life I had grand dreams of stamping a design on this, but then I got real. I'll probably need more lace, but it was pretty cheap and they had another lace I was interested in, so I might get that too. Can never have too much lace, right?

Comments

[elizabeth_mn]

This is exactly what I needed to read right now! Yay floofy goodness!

I was planning to do a separate corset cover, too, for all the same reasons. I"m also thinking of doing a small hoop/bustle deal for that big 1870-ish shape.

[mala_14]

We're going to be so floofy together!

Ooh, cool! I think those hoop-bustle combos are so interesting.

[howlgirl]

I did a floofy 1860s dress with the half high lining, do you want inside pics?

[mala_14]

Not if it's any trouble. But I would like to learn more about it, even though I'm not planning on doing it for this project. Thanks!

[howlgirl]

It's basically making two bodices, one out of a more solid fabric that has a very 'ballgown' neckline. Mine comes up over my shoulders. Then making a second one to go over that.

[mala_14]

Yeah, that part makes sense. It's the separate closures that confuse me, because they share the same waistband usually, right?

[howlgirl]

I'll take lots of pictures!

[mala_14]

Thank you! I really appreciate it!

[howlgirl]

Apparently I made the closures as one!

[mala_14]

That makes sense! I've done a little bit more research into the topic recently and it looks like there are a lot of different methods, some of which make more sense in my head than others.

[nuranar]

It's not hard to do a voluminous bodice over a half high lining. BUT right after 1865 it became more common to use a corset cover instead of fussing with the lining. Before 1865 corset covers were pretty rare - and even then, there are unlined sheers, so they were worn. I would go with a corset cover because it's typical for bustle and you'll get extra use out of it.

This is going to be very pretty! I love sheers!

[mala_14]

It's just the closures part that confuses me, especially right at the waistband. Thanks for the info! That's kind of what I thought.

I hope so! I love sheers too! And they were so popular in so many different eras. I kind of want one for every decade from 1790-1930. ;p

[nuranar]

Yes, that part is not easy.

The eye side is easy, just sewn together at the waist. The fashion fabric overlaps the lining by about 1/2". (I do eyes right on the edge with hidden tape.)

On the hook side, the lining is sewn into the waistband with the bodice, until about 1" from the front. Then it is doglegged free of the waistband. It then tucks between the bodice and lining on the eye side.

I find it best to put eyes on the left and hooks on the right. So the waistband on the hook side can carry over to the left side front opening in the skirt.

[mala_14]

Ah I see. Thanks! That's really clear! I figured it had to be something like that, but the logistics of the whole thing are hard to do in my head. Your explanation helps me picture it. :)

[danabren]

Please share your dress diary on this project, I have a ton of lawn and no direction.

[mala_14]

I definitely will!

[bauhausfrau]

Oh I love this dress, I can't wait to see how it turns out!

[mala_14]

I've been wanting a sheer dress for a long time, so looking forward to this! Maybe even more once I decided I was going to serge my hems. ;)