Pleating

[mala_14]

Got all my neckline trim pleated and pinned. Whew! That took a long time, but I'm quite pleased with how it's looking. It's a tube of taffeta ironed flat with the lace sewn on one side and a line of stitching to fake a tiny hem on the other side. I was going to ruche the thing, but it ended up being a bit too stiff so I went with pleats instead, copied from this gown in the Philadelphia Museum of Art.


Here you can see the lace that was giving me so many fits. It's just slightly more ivory than the net. I'm totally over it now, though. I decided it looks fine and I was being silly.


Now I have to decide if I want to stitch down the pleats with one line of stitching down the middle or two parallel lines. What do you think?

Comments

[koshka_the_cat]

This is so beautiful!

I think two rows of parallel? Keep the textured look in contrast to the froof of net and lace?

[mala_14]

Thanks! I think the two lines of stitching would also keep things more stable and prevent the silk from turning up and showing all the unfinished edges underneath.

[elizabeth_mn]

I think a single row would be pretty.

[mala_14]

It looks like a single row of stitching is the most common for narrower trim like this, so that might be the deciding factor.

[mandie_rw]

I love the pleated trim! I'd probably incline toward two lines of stitching, myself.

[mala_14]

Thanks! And thanks for the input!

[newmoonstar]

Aw, so sweet and dainty! I think it'll look nice whether you do two lines of stitching or one, but if you're worried about the underside showing, then probably do two.

[mala_14]

Thanks! After going back to my inspiration pics I'm leaning towards one line, since that seems to be what they did.

[atherleisure]

It's coming along beautifully. I'd vote for two rows of stitching. Somehow this seems like it would be better sewn along the edges than down the middle. In the pictures, the lace really doesn't stand out as being noticeably different from the net.

[mala_14]

Thanks! I didn't even think of sewing it down the edges. Hm, another option to ponder. And thanks for the comment about the lace. It's nice to know you think the same as I do about it only being a little different.

[tigerweave]

Hey wow, can I comment here?
I think it looks fine too, probably because both shades of lace look nice with the lavender. I LOVE that pleat trin. Very very pretty. I'd go for 2 parallel lines.

[mala_14]

Hi! You sure can.

Thanks!

[jennil]

It's beautiful!!! I'd vote for the two rows of stitching, myself!

[mala_14]

Thanks Jenni! And thanks for the input. :)

[sewtimely]

I concur, 2 rows of stitching. Do you have any trim to go on top of it?

[mala_14]

Thanks! Nope, this is going to be the last of the trim on the bodice neckline.

[glittersweet]

https://archive.org/details/guidetodressmaki00symo
This is dated to 1876, but has a lot of construction information that is really cool :)

Also yeah, pleatings tend to be single stitched, but it also details how to make a bertha and how to bind the waist of bodices.

Most of the archive books I've grabbed are from later but I am sure I have seen another book that has diagrams for trimmings. It's just in an easy to find folder right now.

[mala_14]

Thanks for the info!