Mock-up the second

[mala_14]

Much better results on this one. Interestingly, I got a much better fit without using much boning. I mostly only have spring steel on hand instead of spiral, and when I had it in the corset I couldn't lace down and it was giving me pain. I have two thin cable ties over the bust and boning CF and CB and that's it. I'm still getting a lot of horizontal wrinkling just under the waist. I think it's because the hipspring isn't dramatic enough so the corset is riding up there, so I need to add more right under the waist to the hip gussets. I may also add just a touch more to the waist. Even though with more space in the hips, I should have an easier time lacing in the waist, the CB is too bowed out in the middle and causing the boning to twist. I think that the fit through the bust is really good and nicely rounded. The only other adjustment I want to make is to re-shape the top edge and raise it a bit.

Comments

[nuranar.livejournal.com]

The fit does look really good in front! The waist definition is good, too. I'm concerned about the back. It really does look too small from the sides to the back. It's bowing because the bust and hips are squishable, but your non-fluffy waist and ribs aren't.

I'm NOT a Victorian corset expert, so take the following thoughts with a grain of salt.

Is that the side seam that goes all the way down the side, forming the back edge of the front hip gusset? Compare to this pic of Merja's:
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj78/Laramoottori/1876corset11_zps4c18a5d5.jpg
It looks like the hip gusset extends slightly too far back. The side seam is a bent line, but probably not quite that much.

But if that IS the side seam, it's in the right place. And in that case, it's the back that needs most of the added room. The upper edge looks good, but do increase the waist all around, and tapering up. I'd increase the back hip gusset more than you think it needs; I think it's a bigger culprit to the distortion even than the waist. If you narrow the front hip gusset to fix the side seam angle, definitely add that width to the back gusset as well.

I have no idea if that helps! This shape is looking REALLY good. It's much easier to fuss with the back and hip than the bust!

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

Thanks for the words of advice! I totally agree with you and have made some changes to my pattern that are pretty much the same as you suggest. Hoping to get new back pieces and hip gussets cut out today and tried on with these fronts. :) Hips are SO much easier than bust!

[tigerweave.livejournal.com]

With the caveat that I don't know what I'm doing with corset fitting, I'd second the need for more space over the back/side of the hip than the front.

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

Yeah, I agree. Hopefully the next mock-up will be just right!

[tigerweave.livejournal.com]

Yeah! Here's hoping.

[chocolatepot.livejournal.com]

Hmm. I think I agree that some more width in the back gusset could help, but you might just need some more added to the waistline instead. It's a hard call, because you don't want to end up with no gap, but given how close together the lacing is at the bottom of the back compared to where it is at the waist, I'm not sure more ease there is going to help.

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

I think part of the problem is that the hip ease is in the wrong place. Like I need more width at the top of the hip but at the bottom of the hip it's fine. I cut a vertical slit up the front hip gusset and when I smoothed it down with my hand there was a big gap at the top of the gusset but it practically closed up again at the bottom. It was also giving me a bit of pain at the top of my right hip, which I also took as a sign to add more there. The waist definitely also needs more room, but probably not as much as this mock-up makes it look. We'll see in the next mock-up!