Corset thoughts

[mala_14]

One of my upcoming, very near future projects is a new Victorian corset. My lavender one is good in terms of fit, but it's not perfect and a little bit of wear is starting to show where the lacing rubs. What I want is the perfect corset. One that fits like a glove, is comfortable/practical, and gives a good shape. I'm willing to sacrifice a bit of curviness for comfort. I am undecided about a number of things though and would love to hear what you all think. Please chime in!

I'm going to start off with the pattern for my lavender corset as a base because it's pretty good already. Small changes I want to make in terms of fitting are: lower the waist, take in the bust, take in the front hip, add to the back hip, add to the waist, shorten the whole thing/take about 2 inches off the bottom (going for a somewhat earlier time period for this one, so doesn't need to be so long). These are all things I can easily do on paper.

Some thoughts on design:

• I am considering doing a big hip piece, like the 1868 L. Foy corset pattern that jenthompson made and the Mina Sebille corset that koshka_the_cat made, but leaving out the bust gussets, because I hate putting in gussets

• But maybe I actually want to leave it at shaped pieces like this 1865 corset from Kent State University Museum, probably not front-lacing though:

• Also, I'm not sure if I want to go simple and make it white and utilitarian, or make it a fun, coloured corset

Thoughts? How do you feel about hip gussets? Do you prefer white or coloured corsets?

Comments

[pinkdiamond.livejournal.com]

Bust gussets are amazing for getting a really defined rounded bust isolated from the ribcage. And that is vital for me, as I have no bust! So I can basically super easily make a fake bust that I never had! I think next time I would be tempted to make the hip gussets sit on the hips not go to the waist- the extra fabric in the seam allowances makes it a tiny but harder.
I find as the fabric is all on the grain you can get a really close fit from waist to underbust, and because it is still straight across the grain you can shift the bust a good inch up or down to get a really 1890s shape or a really 1860s shape :) And across the back tends to be smoother and flatter as compared to a paneled corset :)

I have made the mistake of trying to blend corsets and so I have a few roaming with no channels or bones ;) But yeah I love the Sebille for being able to use the body panels for fit and support and the gussets can be used to change shape like bust height and size and hip flare :)

And now I am inspired to make a "real" version of the steampunk/silver one I made :) So yay, thank you :)

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

Really good points! Thank you! I think I need to look at some period photographs and see what the bust shape looks like. And thanks for reminding me about grainlines. Something else to think about.

Best on your corset! I'm sure it will be fabulous like everything else you make. :)

[mrs_maupin]

My current corset is white. It is showing wear quite quickly - everywhere where my fingers will rub, on the bus particularly, it is getting a stain. Never. Again. A. White. Corset.

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

Hm, good point. Maybe a drab corset? They were popular for a reason! ;p

[ashamanja-babu.livejournal.com]

I have never used the hip gussets but on curviness vs. comfort I want to say that all my most comfortable corsets are also my curviest ones. I have made a few corsets and there have certainly been some stinkers. When they are too tight everywhere, especially over the hips, it's very uncomfortable and you also get an unflattering barrel shape instead of a curvy hourglass. When I made my current favorite corset, I could fit a couple of fists inside the hips. Seriously. Now it's molded to my shape a bit, but having that hip room was essential for a curvy shape and comfy fit.

People say the same thing about bust room, but I have to think about support, too, so I can't make it too loose up top.

White vs color: with white I never have to worry about a color showing through a thin dress fabric. Still, colors are fun! And how many sheer dresses does one really need anyway?

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

Thanks for the input! I hear ya on the hip room. I really think I made the waist on my last corset just a touch too small though. And the bust a bit too big, which is why I pad it.

This is my dilemma! I want the practicality of the white but the fun of the colour!

[chocolatepot.livejournal.com]

I haven't gotten to it yet, but next month I'm going to be making the Sebille corset. I think the hip gussets will make the hipspring much better and easier to achieve.

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

I think so too, which is why I want to try it out. Looking forward to seeing your project! I probably won't get around to my corset for a few weeks too. I have a couple of other smaller projects to get done first.

[wanda-victorian.livejournal.com]

I have only ever made one corset with mediocre success so I can't advise on the construction bits. Color, well, I think there are more examples of white corsets in museums but color is fun! It depends on your goal and character. Is your goal to match what was commonly done or is it to go with what could have been done? Is Lottie Lovett conservative or does she have a secret little wild streak?

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

lol My goal is using as many supplies as I currently have because at the moment my purse is very empty. ;p I think I've decided on either drab or red because I have some peachy fabric I can either tea dye or dye with the packet of red dye I have.