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I'm participating in the short stays sew-along online and decided that I was going to get a paper pattern figured out last week. It's not a lot, but I've been really busy. I was inspired by the underbust stays in the Kyoto Collection and these other cupped ones from the Met.
To start, I took out my 1780 stays and traced them around the top, stopping above the waist, around the level of the Kyoto ones by my guess. I might still shorten them more, but haven't decided yet. I added some width to the back because I want these to be front closing and my 1780 stays are back closing. I also made an estimate about where to scoop out the front to make these underbust. I'll refine that in the mock-up stage. Theoretically, with the underbust thing, the shift should act like the cups in all the cupped stays from this era, but I'm not sure how that will work out yet. That's the interesting part!
I also made the part for the straps wider and more defined, since that seems to be how these types of stays go. Scooped out the top of the back a little too. I haven't decided on the seamline(s) yet either. As you can see, there was a lot of drawing and re-drawing when I was designing my pattern. We'll see how it goes. This is a busy week, but I'm hoping to get a mock-up done either this week or next week. I am hopeful that making the actual thing also won't take too long; there aren't many eyelets or bones in this style.
To start, I took out my 1780 stays and traced them around the top, stopping above the waist, around the level of the Kyoto ones by my guess. I might still shorten them more, but haven't decided yet. I added some width to the back because I want these to be front closing and my 1780 stays are back closing. I also made an estimate about where to scoop out the front to make these underbust. I'll refine that in the mock-up stage. Theoretically, with the underbust thing, the shift should act like the cups in all the cupped stays from this era, but I'm not sure how that will work out yet. That's the interesting part!
I also made the part for the straps wider and more defined, since that seems to be how these types of stays go. Scooped out the top of the back a little too. I haven't decided on the seamline(s) yet either. As you can see, there was a lot of drawing and re-drawing when I was designing my pattern. We'll see how it goes. This is a busy week, but I'm hoping to get a mock-up done either this week or next week. I am hopeful that making the actual thing also won't take too long; there aren't many eyelets or bones in this style.
