Dec. 13th, 2017

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I spent the last couple of days in mock-up land trying to get a really good fit for my stays. I wanted them to give a nice shape, but I also wanted them to be comfortable (I tested them by wearing the mock-up for a couple hours. I even vacuumed in them! ;p) Anyways, I spent a lot of time looking for advice on fitting stays, but there isn't a lot out there. Partly, probably, because fitting stays, including historically, is a very individualized process. The fabulous Kendra, of demodecouture.com, goes into the fitting process here, which includes some really interesting observations that were helpful to me. However, Kendra has quite a different figure from me, so we were dealing with some different fitting issues. So, here are all my thoughts for fitting a short, short-waisted figure, with a medium-to-small bust and a swayback for c.1780s stays. (Probably good for about 1775-1795. Stays before and after this period tend to be different styles and I didn't look into them that much for this project.) The actual stays will be fully boned, with reed, and have a pink linen outer layer. I was totally inspired by this pair of stays in the Manchester Gallery.

Cut for so many pictures and thoughts )


People's blogs who were super helpful for looking at fit include:
Sanna's blog Rococo Atelier (Sanna made stays from this pattern back in 2013. Her figure is much curvier than mine, but it was so helpful to see this pattern properly fitted on someone.)
Kendra's blog Demode Couture (Kendra's finished stays here as well as a link to her Pinterest board showing stays that are flared at the front.)
[personal profile] lukitari 's blog Before the Automobile (Merja's beautifully constructed and fitted stays helped me think through fit.)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat 's blog Before the Automobile (Katherine's stays were helpful in showing fit on someone smaller-busted, like myself.)
[personal profile] jenthompson 's blog Festive Attyre (Jen also has a set of stays from this era and it was helpful seeing another pair on an actual body, rather than a dressform.

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Sabrina

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