Working on the skirt
Sep. 1st, 2014 04:40 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
mala_14I got the skirt for my GoT Tyrell dress cut out. I'd share a picture but it's not very exciting, just a bunch of trapezoids. It's a 9 gore skirt, though technically 8 because gores 1 and 9 overlap. My fabric is a deep turquoise taffeta and doesn't seem to have any sort of direction to it, so I only needed 2 metres because some gores I could cut upside-down and still get a good amount of hem.
Cutting method: I folded my fabric so it was in fours, then marked off a rectangle that was 39 inches/1 metre long by the width of the fabric. I measured the waist of the bodice and divided that by 8 then added 1 inch for a seam allowance. I calculated the hem width of each gore by taking the total fabric width (59), subtracting 2 of the waist width of each gore (2x4.25), and then dividing by 3 for the number of hems that would be on that width of the fabric. Came out to about 16.75 after I rounded off to the easiest thing to mark. I marked out on my fabric so that I could cut 2 trapezoids on the fold, 4 upside-down beside that one, and then 3 more right side up (just keeping my scissors out of the bottom-most layer). It looked sort of like this: |_\_/_\| leaving a triangle at the selvedge. Overall my hem should be about 126, but that will change a little bit because all the points/corners will be coming off the bottom of the trapezoids when leveling the hem.
Hopefully leaving the one gore attached to the selvedge triangle will leave me with enough fabric for the underside of the velveteen shoulder pieces. If not, then some piecing might be in order. Luckily, it's not a very visible area because it's mostly facing my back, neck, or shoulder, just peeking out over the arm.
I can probably get the gores sewn together today and I may just do that later this evening. I want to attach a narrow waistband to the skirt and tack that to the bodice. The closure is going to be a bit tricky because of the hook and bar on the bodice being in the way of the waistband, but I think I figured out a solution to that: leaving the skirt unattached to the bodice where it overlaps (either skirt or bodice, whichever one has the greater overlap) and giving the skirt its own closure.
Cutting method: I folded my fabric so it was in fours, then marked off a rectangle that was 39 inches/1 metre long by the width of the fabric. I measured the waist of the bodice and divided that by 8 then added 1 inch for a seam allowance. I calculated the hem width of each gore by taking the total fabric width (59), subtracting 2 of the waist width of each gore (2x4.25), and then dividing by 3 for the number of hems that would be on that width of the fabric. Came out to about 16.75 after I rounded off to the easiest thing to mark. I marked out on my fabric so that I could cut 2 trapezoids on the fold, 4 upside-down beside that one, and then 3 more right side up (just keeping my scissors out of the bottom-most layer). It looked sort of like this: |_\_/_\| leaving a triangle at the selvedge. Overall my hem should be about 126, but that will change a little bit because all the points/corners will be coming off the bottom of the trapezoids when leveling the hem.
Hopefully leaving the one gore attached to the selvedge triangle will leave me with enough fabric for the underside of the velveteen shoulder pieces. If not, then some piecing might be in order. Luckily, it's not a very visible area because it's mostly facing my back, neck, or shoulder, just peeking out over the arm.
I can probably get the gores sewn together today and I may just do that later this evening. I want to attach a narrow waistband to the skirt and tack that to the bodice. The closure is going to be a bit tricky because of the hook and bar on the bodice being in the way of the waistband, but I think I figured out a solution to that: leaving the skirt unattached to the bodice where it overlaps (either skirt or bodice, whichever one has the greater overlap) and giving the skirt its own closure.
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Date: 2014-09-01 09:58 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-09-01 10:03 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-09-01 10:21 pm (UTC)This reminds me of how I did the gores for my cotehardie. It works very well!
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Date: 2014-09-01 10:32 pm (UTC)Non-directional fabrics are so much easier to use for gored skirts!