Tyrell bodice thoughts

[mala_14]

Costumes on Game of Thrones often use the same pattern or are recycled among characters. These two gowns of Margaery's are the same pattern and several of her handmaids wear similar gowns. I think I even spotted Margaery's light blue gown from Season 2 (below left and middle) on one of her handmaids in Season 4. I borrowed the Season 3 DVDs from my boyfriend where the darker gown is shown (below right)

So I'm about to get started patterning out the bodice for my GoT Tyrell gown and have some thoughts on going about this. So, because I love lists, here's one:

1. Using my body block/sloper. Because I drafted it last year and haven't really used it yet and if it's drafted for my measurements it should be all kinds of magic for making something that fits me (theoretically).


2. There are no darts and the brocade bodice is all one piece. It goes around the neck and the back is all open to the waist. (A bit scandalous, but not surprising for Margaery.)


3. I have deduced (by looking very closely and very close-up pictures) that the bodice is cut on the bias with the neckline on-grain ( to stabilize and to prevent gaping). The brocade shows lines that indicate this. Also, there are no darts, but the bodice is really smooth => bias!


4. There is a lot of support going on. I am going to use 2 layers of drill for a foundation with my embossed damask fabric floating over top of that.


5. Question: Will I need to bone the bodice? I think not, but I'm thinking of stitching/quilting the 2 drill layers together for added strength.


6. I'm using hooks and bars for closures. Don't want any wardrobe malfunctions here!

More on this once I have some sort of pattern and a mock-up!

Comments

[nuranar.livejournal.com]

All I've seen are these reference pictures, but from that, your analysis is sound. Query about the no-darts thing. Do you mean no darts in any layers, or no darts in the brocade alone, floating over a darted/fitted firm underlayer? I'm honestly skeptical that drill can shape like that without darts. I haven't seen it in motion, but all of the pictures show the bodice looking more like semi-flexible armor than like fabric. I'd be inclined to fit the drill as needed, including darts, and then use the bias cut only on the brocade. And actually, depending on how cooperative it is, I might actually shape and steam the brocade over it, like layers of armor.

Have you considered some light/medium buckram for the shoulders/sleeves? You want to make sure it's stiff enough to give that awesome wing-like look.

I don't think you'd need boning, either; unless maybe at waist darts or side seams. Might try wearing a fitted drill version with a skirt basted on, to get an idea of any creases that may form when you move. You wouldn't even feel short pieces of boning, but they'd keep the drill from making semi-permanent wrinkles.

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

I was thinking about having no darts at all, but you make a really good point about being able to put darts in the underlayer. I'm planning on constructing that layer first anyways and seeing how it fits before putting the fashion fabric over it, so I can make adjustments as I go along.

I have some hair canvas that I am planning on using for the shoulder parts. I'm going to try pad stitching. And if that's not enough then I think I'll also throw some interfacing in there too.

Thanks for all your thoughts! They're really helpful!

[nuranar.livejournal.com]

Hair canvas sounds good! You've got some great plans. I hope any of my noodling has been helpful - I've really never done anything like this before either. :p

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

It should be fun to experiment and learn something new! :)