More mock-ups
Jun. 20th, 2014 03:41 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
mala_14Yesterday I patterned up my Regency stays using my 1790 stays as a guide. I traced the outline of my stays on paper using where the tabs begin as the waistline. I then used the Bernhardt diagram to make the changes. I lengthened the bottom, curving low over the front then higher over the hips and back down again a bit at the back (like Fig. C at top right). I also changed the one big outline into two pieces, a back and a front-side, with the break curving in at the waist (like Fig. E, bottom middle). I marked a spot for the hip gusset under the arm and made an underbust curve starting at the strap and ending just before the centre front. I also made a hip gusset: a triangle the depth of the slash and 2.5 inches at the base. I checked the corset's underbust, waist, and hip measurement to make sure that they approximated my own, minus about 3-4 inches for a lacing gap.
Today I made a mock-up using one layer of poly-cotton broadcloth. I figured that I'd try a really light mock-up because I could always add thickness later. Turns out, one flimsy layer was almost totally sufficient, so I will definitely be going with the sateen-broadcloth combo on the finished product. It also only had centre back bones, though I think I will need to add boning to the centre front. This only adds credence to the claim that it is the cut of the corset that does the work and that thicker is not always better. I cut the front on a slight bias and cut the back with the centre on grain. It felt supportive and comfortable.
One of the benefits of using a corset that already fits to make a new one is that most of the fitting is already done. The body pieces fit quite well. I can probably add just a touch to the hip gusset. The only thing that needs any real alteration is the underbust curve. I need to move the curve farther to the side and raise and bone the centre front to get that iconic Regency "lift and separate" look. I also need to figure out the cup part which I did not include in my mock-up. I patterned a sort of half oval, but I'm thinking I may need to make the top edge curved. No pictures, because an underbust corset worn only with a thin shift isn't the most modest look! ;p
Today I made a mock-up using one layer of poly-cotton broadcloth. I figured that I'd try a really light mock-up because I could always add thickness later. Turns out, one flimsy layer was almost totally sufficient, so I will definitely be going with the sateen-broadcloth combo on the finished product. It also only had centre back bones, though I think I will need to add boning to the centre front. This only adds credence to the claim that it is the cut of the corset that does the work and that thicker is not always better. I cut the front on a slight bias and cut the back with the centre on grain. It felt supportive and comfortable.
One of the benefits of using a corset that already fits to make a new one is that most of the fitting is already done. The body pieces fit quite well. I can probably add just a touch to the hip gusset. The only thing that needs any real alteration is the underbust curve. I need to move the curve farther to the side and raise and bone the centre front to get that iconic Regency "lift and separate" look. I also need to figure out the cup part which I did not include in my mock-up. I patterned a sort of half oval, but I'm thinking I may need to make the top edge curved. No pictures, because an underbust corset worn only with a thin shift isn't the most modest look! ;p
