In progress pics

[mala_14]

I have all the machine assembly done on the bodice, which is good because I am thiiiiiiis close to being out of white cotton thread. I need to go to the store tomorrow and pick some up as well as some straight pins that don't have plastic heads. I drafted this bodice to meet edge-to-edge and then use hooks and eyes for the closure, but I'm thinking that because the fabric is a bit stretchier (and I can do slightly smaller seam allowances at the front edge), I might end up pinning it closed. For those of you who have done 18th century, do you have any preference or advice?

I sewed the seams sort of like the jacket seams in Costume Close-Up, but with all the layers being sewn at once (lining layers right sides together and outer fabric right sides together) leaving about an inch open at either end. Then finishing those inch openings with just lining sewn together and just outer fabric sewn together. This allows me to have all the seam allowances enclosed, but also leaves the edges able to turn into each other. Most other methods seem to be based on hand-sewing techniques. There was no way I was hand-sewing this thing, so I jiggered it this way. I also did that cool thing where you sew the sleeve together, lining and outer fabric, all with one seam and then turn it and you magically end up with a lined sleeve with all the seam allowances encased. Did the same weird thing with leaving the hem edge open for an inch, etc. Some pictures of the front, the inside back, and the outside back:

Comments

[elizabeth_mn]

It's looking great! I love that sleeve magic technique.

I usually use pins to close the front, because of size flexibility, non-gappingness, and laziness.

[mala_14]

Thanks! Good to know!

[atherleisure]

I'm a huge fan of closing 18th century bodices with straight pins. It just seems to work really well. The key is to put them in horizontally with the points buried in the bodice. I use the dressmaking pins with the tiny steel heads. I think Dritz calls them silk pins.

Your bodice is looking nice.

[mala_14]

Thank you! Horizontally? That's really interesting. Thanks for the tip!

[atherleisure]

The first time I tried to pin a dress closed, I ran the pins vertically, and it about drove me to distraction. Then someone told me about doing them horizontally, and it was SO much easier. They almost disappear that way too. I've been trying to find a picture that shows the pins, but this is the best I've been able to do: https://www.flickr.com/photos/23597713@N05/10608069275/in/dateposted/ They disappear too well! They're spaced about every inch and go through all layers of the jacket going in then all but the outermost layer coming back out. I lap right over left and put the pins in from the left, but I'm left-handed so the opposite may be easier for you.

[mala_14]

Wow! That is really neat. I was worried that I wouldn't have enough overlap to pin horizontally, but I just tried on the bodice and it turns out that I do, so I will keep that in mind. Horizontal makes sense, like buttonholes, where you're supposed to do them in the same direction that the tension goes.

[robinsnest]

There is something so sexy about those second half of the 18th century back seams. The hour glass shape or something, so visually appealing. Looks beautiful!

[mala_14]

Yes! Those curving seams were something I really wanted specifically. There are some very intense curves on some extant garments. Thanks!

[totchipanda]

I prefer pins. I have no luck with hooks and eyes/bars except in pairs at most.

[mala_14]

Good to know! Thanks!

[nuranar]

I'm glad I'm not the only one who does sly machine sewing like that! It's so much faster and still wonderfully neat.

[mala_14]

lol I'm on a time crunch and have made a hand-sewn dress before. I now feel free to do whatever I want! ;) And yeah, it's great because you totally can't see any of the stitching.

[danabren]

I put that book on my AWL, but for now, I have no idea to visualize the sewing technique you are using? I may need to re-read your post later.

[robinsnest]

Here's a good sleeve tutorial http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2011/05/draping-sort-of-sacque-part-seven.html?m=1

[danabren]

I ... I already do my sleeves that way. I'll be morgadored.

[mala_14]

Katherine has the best tutorials! Definitely where I learned how to set a sleeve, but maybe it was one of her Anglaise gowns.

[mala_14]

Scroll down and see a diagram. But instead of sewing from the top, I arranged the layers so they did the same thing while having the stitches inside. http://www.sewdecadesago.com/?tag=colonial-fashion

[hiraimi]

I love that seam method! I do all of my 18th c sleeves that way, but I somehow don't usually think to do the bodice that way too. I'm glad it's going smoothly so far!

[mala_14]

It's a very convenient method for machine sewing. Thanks! I had a bit of a hiccup today in the sewing, but it's fixed now. :)

[mandie_rw]

Pins! Pins pins pins! I think I hook-and-bar'd only one of my 18thc gowns, and I regretted it every time I went to put it on. I know there are a handful of extants with hooks, but pins are sooooo much easier, even taking into account the occasional forearm that's been mangled by a rogue pinpoint. ;)

[mala_14]

Good to know! Thanks! lol Pins can be treacherous.

[theladyrebecca]

Definitely pin closed! It's great for adjustability, too, in case you don't lace your stays up exactly the same way every time. And your bodice looks great!

[mala_14]

Good point! Thanks!