![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
Entry tags:
Sewing tasks for the day: Done!
For reference, this pattern is from Cut of Women's Clothes by Norah Waugh, diagram XXII from 1775-1780. I managed to enlarge the pattern this afternoon and then did the mock-up stage this evening. It took 2 bodice mock-ups and 2 sleeve mock-ups to get to a good enough stage (where everything fits well and just tiny tweaks are needed that don't warrant another mock-up). Somehow my bodice fronts were way to small at the bust and the back didn't curve in enough at the waist and the waist wasn't short enough. But I managed to get that almost all sorted out with mock-up 2. I can also lift my arms in this! Not as high as one might like, but high enough to touch my head. Pictures:
Things that still need fixing in these pictures: making the elbow dart start a little lower down, alter the angle of the side-back piece where it meets the strap, get rid of the wrinkles in the bodice at the back under the arm by scooping the armscye out a little more there, lower the neckline a bit, and alter the back seamlines a little for aesthetic reasons. Also, it would be good if I had a shift that didn't peak out at the neckline.
Thoughts/notes on fitting:
Things that still need fixing in these pictures: making the elbow dart start a little lower down, alter the angle of the side-back piece where it meets the strap, get rid of the wrinkles in the bodice at the back under the arm by scooping the armscye out a little more there, lower the neckline a bit, and alter the back seamlines a little for aesthetic reasons. Also, it would be good if I had a shift that didn't peak out at the neckline.
Thoughts/notes on fitting:
- On sleeves: I shorted the height of the sleeve head by 1 inch because it seemed excessively tall compared to sleeves from the same era in Janet Arnold. I think this helped get a nicer fit over the shoulder. The pleats are pretty small, like 1/4" in depth, which is a look that I like, and they start almost right at the back strap seam. Wrinkles under the arm at the back are needed for movement. The armscye should hit pretty far out at the front and get narrow at the back.
- On the bodice: The front seam really needs to be curved to accommodate the skirts. Same with the back, dramatic curve out from the waist to sit smoothly over the rump. The bottom of the sides needs to hit at the waist to avoid wrinkling (I kept needing to move this up to accommodate my short underarm-to-waist measure), then it curves down at front and back.
no subject
no subject
no subject
no subject
no subject
no subject
no subject
I'm with you on the sleeve alt; I hate a tall cap!
no subject
Right?! I find it always makes things weird.
no subject
no subject
no subject
no subject
no subject
no subject
no subject
no subject
no subject
no subject
no subject
no subject