Sleevils

[mala_14]

I still need to blog about the second part of my trip, but taking a break to blog about sewing instead. Because I have sleevils, of course! And need some advice. The bodice overall is good, although I managed to make it a bit too small in the bust. Luckily, cotton is forgiving and has a bit of stretch and it should be fine with the buttons. The other minor problem is that I have wrinkles from the back of the neck over the shoulder. The sleeve gets rid of some of it. I figured out that I shaped the shoulder a bit wrong and the front is not quitle long enough and the back is a bit too long at the top, so I fixed all those things on my master pattern, but am willing to let them slide on this functional, non-fancy cotton dress. What I can't figure out is the sleeves.

What is up with that big crease from the elbow up?! Also the wrinkling at the front of the arm? And a bunch of wrinkles in the bottom sleeve piece under my arm? Help please!

I am OK with some wrinkling in the back of the underarm like you see in the shot of the back because that is just ease for movement. (I can totally touch my head in these sleeves!) I'll probably move the armscye out a bit on my master pattern so the sleeve is sitting farther out there. I'm going to let these sleeves be, because they are functional and I handsewed that bugger in, but I want to figure out the weird wrinkles for my next dress with this pattern which will be an ivory wool polonaise with scallops bound in black satin, ie. a nice dress that I want to fit right.

The piping around the armscye looks good at least. Bias! :)

Comments

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

I'm not sure if I'm seeing it correctly or not, but in the second picture, it looks like there's a whole bunch of extra room in the elbow. I wonder if that could be causing the problem?

[starlightmasque.livejournal.com]

I have no advice, justed wanted to come in and say it's looking good! Love the fabric and the piping!

[isabelladangelo.livejournal.com]

I'd play with the sleeve and see if the problem is that the head of the sleeve needs to be moved back slightly along the armscye. I'm not sure if that's the issue or not, but that's what it looks like in the pictures. The bodice is beautiful, by the way!

[chocolatepot.livejournal.com]

I think some sleeve wrinkling is inevitable, but maybe the problem with the vertical crease is just that the sleeve doesn't have enough body to stand on its own/narrows too quickly?

[atherleisure.livejournal.com]

I wonder if the sleeve just need to be rotated a bit in the armscye. That looks like the sort of thing that happens when the sleeve is set half an inch or so the wrong way.

[nuranar.livejournal.com]

This was my first thought, too. It wouldn't be a big move. From the angle, I would guess rotating it to the back (top toward the back) is the best bet.

[ashamanja-babu.livejournal.com]

I would also say it look like the sleeve could be rotated slightly. You could either bring it forward slightly or draft a little height out of the back sleeve cap, or both.

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

I think you're right. I think there's a bit too much right in the elbow to make the angle. Thanks!

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

Thanks Angela! I love the fabric too. :)

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

I think the sleeve head is in the wrong place too. Based on the grainlines of the sleeve I think it needs to be rotated forward. Maybe that will take some out of the back too. Thanks! :)

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

Yeah, I think I might have made the elbow with too drastic of a curve. I took out a bit at the elbow on my pattern and made it a more gentle curve. Thanks!

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

I think you're right. I looked at pictures of my bustle bodice and at the grainlines of this sleeve and it should probably be rotated forward a bit. Thanks for the advice!

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

Yeah. I guess I'm going to have to rip out all that handsewing and reset the sleeve with it rotated forward. Boo! :p Thanks for the input!

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

I think you're right and that it needs rotating. I'm going to try setting in the second sleeve at a different angle and if it fixes all the problems then this sleeve is coming out to be fixed! Thanks!

[ashamanja-babu.livejournal.com]

Bummer, your piping looks so nice!