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Polonaise patterned!
Apr. 23rd, 2015 08:32 pmWell looks like all the pattern really needed was to be lengthened 2 inches, 1.5 inches right above the darts and 0.5 inches across the middle of the chest. This is the Basque Bodice for Medium-Sized Ladies in Frances Grimble's Fashions of the Gilded Age Vol. 1 (pg. 173) using the 43 cm ruler. If you have a larger bust, you might not need to lengthen the bodice as much. But I'm pretty short and short-waisted and still needed to lengthen it significantly, so most normal height people will probably need to lengthen a bunch.
I added skirts to the front and side-back pieces as well as box-pleat extensions into the back piece at the waist (based on other patterns of polonaises in the book). I'll lengthen the skirts in the back and side-back pieces for the real thing. In this mock-up I just wanted to get a chance to see how the more fitted parts would go and to figure out the polonaised front. I also cut the armscye in a bit in the front. The curve of the CF of the bodice needed slight adjusting (taking in at the top and letting out just slightly at the bust). This was after I'd made the waist a bit bigger at CB and the side-most dart. Thinking about it, I could probably go up a ruler size, but I won't because I'm too lazy to trace out another one.
And, miracle of miracles, the sleeve fit almost perfectly! Seriously. It just needs a little bit taken out where the pins are and maybe where that wrinkle in the back of the arm is and to be lengthened by an inch to where the mock-up sits now. Crazy.
I think getting the silhouette just right first really made fitting this easier. With a period silhouette, it makes sense that the period pattern would fit correctly right? One of the key things that I've noticed about silhouette thanks to![[livejournal.com profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/external/lj-userinfo.gif)
the_aristocat is a low and rounded bust. Also the natural form belly. Definitely have that going on. ;p
I'm glad this went so smoothly. I need to get a move on with the sewing or I won't have anything to wear at CoCo. Maybe I can get it cut out tomorrow? Or at least cut this mock-up apart for the pattern, draft up a collar, and actually sew the hem on the skirt. That seems more likely. Then I'll be away for a week's vacation in Chicago and Indianapolis. Darn, just when I'm making progress!
I added skirts to the front and side-back pieces as well as box-pleat extensions into the back piece at the waist (based on other patterns of polonaises in the book). I'll lengthen the skirts in the back and side-back pieces for the real thing. In this mock-up I just wanted to get a chance to see how the more fitted parts would go and to figure out the polonaised front. I also cut the armscye in a bit in the front. The curve of the CF of the bodice needed slight adjusting (taking in at the top and letting out just slightly at the bust). This was after I'd made the waist a bit bigger at CB and the side-most dart. Thinking about it, I could probably go up a ruler size, but I won't because I'm too lazy to trace out another one.
And, miracle of miracles, the sleeve fit almost perfectly! Seriously. It just needs a little bit taken out where the pins are and maybe where that wrinkle in the back of the arm is and to be lengthened by an inch to where the mock-up sits now. Crazy.
I think getting the silhouette just right first really made fitting this easier. With a period silhouette, it makes sense that the period pattern would fit correctly right? One of the key things that I've noticed about silhouette thanks to
the_aristocat is a low and rounded bust. Also the natural form belly. Definitely have that going on. ;pI'm glad this went so smoothly. I need to get a move on with the sewing or I won't have anything to wear at CoCo. Maybe I can get it cut out tomorrow? Or at least cut this mock-up apart for the pattern, draft up a collar, and actually sew the hem on the skirt. That seems more likely. Then I'll be away for a week's vacation in Chicago and Indianapolis. Darn, just when I'm making progress!
