Jun. 10th, 2014

mala_14: (iris)
Following the lead of [livejournal.com profile] girliegirl32786 and [livejournal.com profile] fancyfrocks, I am posting some pictures of what was pretty much my final pattern mock-up. I think it's so cool to see the shapes flat that turn into different 3D results.

For reference, I started out with the 1795-1803 Open Robe pattern lining from Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion Vol. 1 but added a few inches of length to the bottom, raised the neckline, and adjusted it to my corseted measurements. I also changed the front/side piece into two pieces. The resulting shapes are quite obviously transitional/1790s. The position of the waistline is well above the natural waist, but not right under the bust. The back piece especially shows the movement from the very narrow two back pieces connected to a big front piece of the 1780s to the single back piece with a curved side/back piece with an underarm seam of the Regency. The sleeve is still quite 1700s in shape with the top of the sleeve cap on one side and the bottom/underarm on the other. Also, the distinct point where the curve changes direction fits into the corner where the back bodice meets the side back and strap. (When sewing this, it is easiest to sew the under arm from the point up to where the strap meets the front first and then sew the top of the sleeve in to the strap.)


Having made up the gown, in retrospect, I would move the side bodice seam forward to where the armscye is lowest. I would also take off a bit (but not much) of height from the sleeve head to eliminate the three small pleats I ended up having to add to the sleeve. (Note: I added about 10 inches to the two sides of the lower sleeve to turn them into long sleeves and then tried them on to mark the length.)

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Sabrina

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