Dear Sabrina, I'm very much looking forward seeing another one of J.S. Bernhardt's stays made up. Fig 'C' was his own creation and he aimed that the back is cut on the straight while the front is hence very much cut on the bias (with just one pattern piece for each side). If you're intending to assemble one of the stays (Schnuerleib) on the bottom row (I did a mix of 'D' and 'F') you have to keep in mind, that if you base it on 'C' you have to be careful to not add anything on the front to take out the stretch effect of the front. Bernhardt designed the 'C' to give lots of stretch to the front, hence the fabric curves wonderfully around, any additional cording, fastening should be carefully considered to not restrict the stretch effect, because then the stays would simply be too tight and not fit. The three Schnuerleiber on the bottom row are made of different pieces, which have bias edges, so the stretch effect does not only lies in the front piece. I hope my explanation hasn't confused you in the process. I hope you enjoy assembling these, they are very comfortable to wear once fitted. Very best Sabine
![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
carisma_sensei
no subject
Date: 2014-06-20 05:10 am (UTC)I'm very much looking forward seeing another one of J.S. Bernhardt's stays made up. Fig 'C' was his own creation and he aimed that the back is cut on the straight while the front is hence very much cut on the bias (with just one pattern piece for each side).
If you're intending to assemble one of the stays (Schnuerleib) on the bottom row (I did a mix of 'D' and 'F') you have to keep in mind, that if you base it on 'C' you have to be careful to not add anything on the front to take out the stretch effect of the front. Bernhardt designed the 'C' to give lots of stretch to the front, hence the fabric curves wonderfully around, any additional cording, fastening should be carefully considered to not restrict the stretch effect, because then the stays would simply be too tight and not fit.
The three Schnuerleiber on the bottom row are made of different pieces, which have bias edges, so the stretch effect does not only lies in the front piece. I hope my explanation hasn't confused you in the process.
I hope you enjoy assembling these, they are very comfortable to wear once fitted.
Very best
Sabine