mala_14: (1882 Little Mermaid)
Overall, a very productive year for historical sewing because of Costume College, at least for the first half of the year. Sadly, no modern makes and not much done lately.
1880s Undergarments: Chemise, Corset, Bust Pad, Ruffled Bustle Pad, and Petticoat

Felt very accomplished in making all of these. Not pictured is the little ruffled panel that I made to button on my Edwardian petticoat that I wore underneath. This corset is pretty and kinda fancy (gives a very curvy shape) and fits almost just right, but I still need to finish the flossing on it and want to make a new corset this year that is more comfortable and fits exactly right.

See the rest here! )

Altogether about 12 individual items. Not too shabby and definitely a productive year for me. My 2015 goals were to:

  1. Make clothes to wear over historical undergarments

  2. Focus on fit

  3. Make accessories

  4. Use the stash

  5. Figure out hair

I definitely made clothes, 3 outfits/dresses! I am pretty happy with the fit on all of the things I made, although there are a couple of small tweaks that I can and will make in the future. Did better on accessories for some things, although still weak in the hat department. All 3 outifts used stash fabrics (print cotton, green silk, purple synthetic, black chiffon). Hair was OK, but nothing to brag about. Mostly curling and some braids. Having bangs was definitely key with all the bustle stuff I was doing.

My goals for 2016 are looking pretty similar. I want more clothes, especially since I have so many undergarments now, although some more are on the list. Fit will always be a priority with me and something that can always be worked on. I want more comfort (range of movement in arms, waist placement) and I know how to do that, so I can put it into work this year. More accessories, for sure, especially hats but also a couple of other things that are on the docket. I got a bunch of straw hats for Christmas that I can cut up and take apart to make new hats! I bought a lot of fabric this year, so next year needs to be about using them! (A problem you can all sympathise with, I know.) Hair, well mine's getting longer, so some styles should be easier. Also, I have Kendra's 18th Hairstyling book, so that may come into play some time.

Whew! So that was sewing in 2015!
mala_14: (1882 Little Mermaid)
I had planned on getting to the breakfast, probably late, but instead I accidentally slept in and got up at 8:45. And I had a 9:00 class!!! It was [ profile] llyrafantasyfae's multi-coloured death head buttons class, which I was really looking forward to. So I rushed and got ready as quickly as I could and accidentally went to the wrong floor before finally getting to class only 5 min. late. :) This class was so much fun because we got to make useful and pretty things and Amy Lee is a great teacher. Her instructions were so clear and she was very patient. I made this:

The tension probably needs to be a little bit tighter in the middle, but not too shabby for a first try! (Amy Lee's pictures of historical buttons were inspiring and when I got home I figured out how to do a 6 spoke button. You make 6 anchors instead of 4 and then wrap around 1-3, 6-2, 5-1, 4-6, 3-5, 2-4, and continue until you fill up the button. Fun!)

After class I ran into some beautifully dressed Regency ladies, at least one of whom had cannibalistic tendencies. ;p

I decided it was my turn to wear Regency so I headed back up to the room to get dressed in my Lost Hope fairy costume. Melissa and I both wanted to go to the Mantua-making class put on by some Colonial Williamsburg folks so we rushed to that. It was a really popular class that included one shining classhole. But it was really informative and inspiring, because they showed us how to cut and drape a polonaise in like no time flat! I need one now!

I also attended [ profile] demode's 1780's hat class. It made me want a silly hat terribly, maybe to wear with my hypothetical polonaise? After class, we Lost Hope folks got together for some pictures. (I believe there was also a Lost Hope photo session earlier, which I missed out on.) I liked how this outfit turned out. My quick 'n' dirty stays totally did their job and the dress was pretty fun to wear.

Afterward there was some more poolside socializing, at which time my turban decided to be difficult and my costume started slowly coming off. There was a second trunk show with [ profile] tayloropolis's jewelry, [ profile] jubilima's ribbons, and Kendra's book. Since I had already bought one of the first, I ended up buying from the latter two. Now I have pretty things!

Dinner was spent with a bunch of lovely people at P.F. Chang's where I figured I should get the lobster fried rice because I was buy the ocean. Angela and I had some more socializing time with the crew from Texas as well as people at the hottub, before heading to a room to play Exclusive Bitches Against Humanity with some wagons. ;) Fun and hilarity ensued.
mala_14: (iris)
I finished my Lost Hope fairy yesterday! *throws confetti* I don't really have any cool accessories, but I have a dress, I have a long piece of fabric for a wrapped turban (which I tried out yesterday and was actually able to put on), I have stockings, and I have shoes. Good enough!

Today is all about finishing off my Little Mermaid outfit. This means boning the bodice, fray-checking the flounce, and putting together my corsage and hair ornament. I'd feel more sure about getting this all done if I didn't also have a softball game this evening. And I have work all day tomorrow. AAHHHHHH!!!! And still need to pack! Not enough time!!!
mala_14: (iris)
I think I'm just going to machine hem everything on the Lost Hope fairy. I finished the edges of the chiffon sleeves with a zig-zag stitch which gave a really interesting sort of faux picot hem with little fraying bits. I like how it looks, so I'm being lazy and leaving it as-is instead of turning up the edge to hem. I wonder if this new-ish machine has some sort of hem-stitch...

Guys, I can totally get this done tonight! Only the skirt hem is left. I even tried it on with my stays and it fits! Whew. Regency stays are a pain-in-the-ass to put on though. No split busk = big hassle and weird contortions. My dress is also weird to put on and take off because I can't actually undo and redo the hook and eyelet I made because the fabric is too thick there. So it's just permanently closed at the top. This means I have to pull the thing over my head and this is difficult because of stays straps. It's all contortion-y!!!

*trots off to look at manual for a hem-stitch*
mala_14: (iris)
I am trying desperately to finish everything before leaving for CoCo on Wednesday morning. I really want to power through and finish up Lost Hope fairy today, including figuring out the wrapped turban. The dress just needs closures (2 hooks and eyes) and hemming the sleeves and skirt, since I just finished sewing the drawstring casing/neckline bias.

I also painted the flowers I want to use to make my corsage and hair ornament for the Gala. The store didn't have many peach flowers, so I bought white, but they were just too white. I used fabric paint, very watered down, and painted them so that they are pale blush with a slightly darker edge to the petals.

What's left:

  • finish off Lost Hope fairy (closures, hem, wrapped turban)

  • Little Mermaid (boning, corsage, hair ornament)

  • fix waist seam on 1942 green linen dress

  • reticule (finish embroidery, assemble)

The reticule will likely be my "hand-sewing on the plane and in the hotel room" project. Since so many of my costumes have pockets, I won't actually need it until Saturday night. Ok, back to work!
mala_14: (iris)
The Lost Hope fairy now has sleeves and a skirt! The sleeves are significantly less puffed than planned and more just short sleeves. But I think I'm going to put an inverted box pleat at the sleeve hem to give it a bit more interest.

What's left: casing, closures, and hems. Going to bed early tonight so I can get up early and get some of this done. I REALLY want to finish this tomorrow, but probably won't because I'm going to a pool party all day.

I made a list of all the things that need finishing before going to LA. It's not TOO long.
mala_14: (iris)
I put the bodice together and snapped a couple of pictures during my fitting. It's not perfect, but pretty good, I think.

Right now I have the skirt together and the sleeves cut out and seamed. I need to get things gathered and attached to each other. Then I'll have a gown put together!
mala_14: (iris)
My Lost Hope fairy costume is night-themed, so I needed a starry sky. I used a weird foam brush (shaped like a dome on a stick) to create a stamp. I turned it into an 8-pointed star by making a template, tracing that onto the brush's end, and snipping out the unnecessary bits. I used Lumiere paint in Bright Gold.

Took me about an hour to do the stamping. Unfortunately, I have some streaky bits. I was using newspaper underneath to mark out my grid and the paint went through the fabric and onto the newspaper, so whenever I moved the fabric it would streak across the underside. I'm not too concerned though. I'll cut around the bad streaks and the rest is going to be a wrapped turban, so it won't really be noticeable. Here are the two fabrics together, the stamped chiffon and the purple shantung (which is darker in real life):

The chiffon is drying (needs 24 hours, then ironing to set) and I have the bodice cut out of the shantung and muslin lining. I thought I would have to assemble the bodice before figuring out the skirt panels, but I just realized that since my bodice doesn't have a side seam, the skirt side seam doesn't need to match up with anything. Well, that makes things easier.
mala_14: (iris)
I got my quick 'n' dirty Regency stays finished off. They don't look so pretty, but they get the job done. I think I've also got a Regency bodice pattern. I drafted something up based off of the shapes from this dress pattern and using my body block for some proportions. Today I tried on the mock-up and made some minor adjustments, so I think it should be good to go. It's going to have a lightly gathered front and a fitted back in dark purple poly shantung. I didn't draft up a sleeve because I'm just going to go with a short, puffed sleeve, which *should* be easy to figure out later since it won't be fitted. The sleeve will be made out of black poly chiffon, stamped with gold stars.

I really want to get this one done and out of the way by the weekend so that I can spend the last few days finishing up other things, like the boning in my Little Mermaid bodice, the hair ornament and corsage, and my reticule.


Jul. 18th, 2015 12:16 pm
mala_14: (iris)
I'm back home! It's always so nice to come home. My dad and I got all the important furniture for my apartment. It's a pretty nice place that has just been renovated, so all the bathroom and kitchen stuff is all new and the floors are refinished. It's also really close to the historic downtown and only a 10 minute walk to campus. Good stuff!

Problem is that it put a bit of a damper on my sewing. I got most of the binding on my Regency stays sewn during the trip. I couldn't sew it all because when I was trying them on before I left for this trip, I realized that the left strap was too tight and I need to loosen that strap just a touch. It dug into my shoulder hard enough to leave a red mark; not good. Plan for today is to fix the strap and finish off the binding. Hopefully I can also get the gown patterned and maybe even partially cut out.

I also did a bit of tambour embroidery on my reticule. It's slow going though. I think to be more efficient, I need a real tambour hoop.

So, what's left to do for CoCo?

  • binding Regency stays

  • Lost Hope Fairy: pattern gown, paint fabric, cut out and sew gown

  • finish Gala stuff: boning bodice, making corsage and hair ornament

  • reticule: finish embroidery and sew together

  • practice hair

  • bonus: 1950s play suit (this looks highly unlikely)

mala_14: (iris)
I want to do a dress inspired by night. My original plan was to do a dark purple dress with a sheer black tunic painted with gold stars, but I just don't think I'll have time for that. Instead, I'm going to still make my dress out of the dark purple shantung and use the black chiffon to do sleeves. I'll also still paint the chiffon with gold stars and use it as both sleeves and some sort of turban. Not sure if I want to do a drawstring back or an apron front closure. So many decision!

I got the sleeve idea from this painting:

But I may do a short sleeve like this one. Also liking this veil thing:

The stays continue apace. I wanted to be done yesterday, but obviously that didn't happen. However, I got some work done today. Tomorrow, I just need to cut the busk, attach the straps to the front, and bind the top and armholes. Getting there!
mala_14: (iris)
I'm done with eyelets! YAY!!! They're all done on the Little Mermaid bodice AND the Regency stays. Whew! That was way too many eyelets in one week. My stays now have eyelets, the fronts and backs are sewn together, and the bottom edge is bound with cotton twill tape. Today is all about boning and busks. I want to put the busk pocket in my stays, cut down my paint stick so that it's proper busk length, get the boning (cable ties) cut and edges finished, and attach the straps to the back pieces. Then it'll be in good enough shape to try on and adjust the strap length. Tomorrow will be finishing off the binding around the top and armholes. That'll leave me this week with one day to pattern out a bodice and another day to cut out the dress.

My short cut is that I'm not going to properly finish my busk, just cut it to the right length. I can make it all nice later with holes bored into it and sanded down. Without the holes to tie it in the pocket, I'll need to temporarily sew it into the pocket. No big deal.

Darn! I just realized I'll have to make 2 eyelets in the busk pocket. Will it never end???!!!
mala_14: (iris)
I am determined to finish my Little Mermaid bodice today. That means neck and armhole frills, bias facings on the edges, the last few eyelets, and boning a couple of the seams. It seems doable, especially since I have pretty much all afternoon and evening to work on it.

I really want to get to work on my Regency stays. I want to finish them by Monday, because I'll be going away for the following weekend and then again after, so I need to get my Lost Hope fairy dress mocked-up and started since I won't be able to work on it while travelling. I'm going to hand sew a reticule while I'm away; I need somewhere to put my camera at CoCo! Lots of driving and plane time to get that done. My inspiration (mine will probably be much plainer):

What's left:

  • Little Mermaid bodice

  • Regency stays

  • reticule

  • Lost Hope fairy dress

  • Lost Hope fairy turban? (This may just end up being a piece of fabric wrapped around my head and pinned. But it may also be a fixed turban. tbd)

  • *Bonus*: 1950s play suit (If I have the time. I have all the stuff for it. This one would be for Thursday.)

I bought this pair of gloves on Etsy for Little Mermaid. I think they should fit. Then I should have all my accessories ready for the Gala (once the reticule is done). Whew! Lots of stuff! Better get to work!


Jun. 1st, 2015 09:24 pm
mala_14: (iris)
Soooo... That skirt that I planned on having done last week... Yeah, still unfinished. All the scaly panels are sewn together and I figured out the pleating of the back panel today so that it fits the waistband, which I also put together today. Still needs to be attached to the waistband, hemmed, and adorned with a pleated organza flounce (which also needs to be cut out and pleated). And I had planned to have my Gala dress done by now. Ha!

Thoughts on CoCo sewing: get the Gala dress done this month and hopefully my Regency stays, then Lost Hope fairy dress, tunic, and turban next month. If I miraculously have any time left, a 1920s one-hour dress from my lavender polka dot rayon.
mala_14: (iris)
Everyone else seems to be doing it lately and I think I finally almost sort-of have my plans figured out. So here goes:

Thursday night/Pool Party: 1960s confetti cotton dress

Friday classes: 1920s/Gatsby or Little House dress group

Friday night/Ice Cream Social: sounds like this might be the Game of Thrones group time

Saturday classes: 1920s/Gatsby or Little House dress group

Saturday night/Gala: Little Mermaid bustle gown (link to Pinterest board)

(Sunday breakfast: Regency cotton dress or spencer and petticoat)

Sunday classes: Regency Lost Hope Fairy

The 1960s and GoT dresses are already done so I don't need to worry about those. My essential costumes that I NEED to make are my 2 bustle dresses (Little House and Little Mermaid). Then, if I have time I want to make a 1920s and Lost Hope Fairy. If I don't have time, then my 1790s striped chemise gown is my back-up for Sunday and my 1942 green linen dress for day on Fri. or Sat. The second Regency is absolutely bottom of the list, but I got some pretty blush spotted voile that would make a lovely Regency dress and lots of fabrics around that would make good spencers since I have to make a strapped petticoat anyways.

For the 1920s I have 1.5m of black linen-rayon blend that I can trim with white sateen. I thought the black and white combo would be nice for Art Deco styling. Maybe I could also figure out a fun hat. Mostly, I thought 1920s would be less labour-intensive and something I could get done quickly.

For the Lost Hope Fairy, I kept thinking about what I had in the stash and would make sense for the theme. I remembered some shot black and purply-blue synthetic shantung I had sitting around. I also have some black synthetic chiffon. So I decided on a dress the colour of night, with a dress of the shantung and a tunic of the chiffon, dotted with little gold spots I could paint on for stars and maybe some silly tassels. Maybe also a turban with a crescent moon decorating it? My Pinterest board for this one.

Disclaimer: All plans subject to change! ;)


mala_14: (Default)

September 2017

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