mala_14: (1882 Little Mermaid)
I put on my chemise, corset, hoop, gored 1890s petticoat, and tucked petticoat, and then my print dress to mark the hem. My mom helped me by pinning up the hem. So that's done. Now it needs a facing, which means I need to find something to make a facing out of. Anyways, the point of listing all the undergarments was that I had totally forgotten about my tucked petticoat, but it makes a really nice over-hoop layer. It's all rectangles, so it adds bit more fullness all around, which I think looks right. I may have spent a few hours looking at photos c.1865-1875 to figure out skirt silhouettes and how to adjust my hoop to make it work for early bustle so that I don't have to make a bustle just yet.

Upon further reflection, I've decided that I didn't distribute the skirt properly when attaching it to the waistband, so it looks a bit skimpy over the back when worn with the hoop. But not enough that I'm going to redo it. I'm just noting it so that I remember for future reference.

Ok, I'm also super sniffly/running nose/sneezy. So I wasn't actually very productive on sewing today. But slowly things are getting done.
mala_14: (1882 Little Mermaid)
Overall, a very productive year for historical sewing because of Costume College, at least for the first half of the year. Sadly, no modern makes and not much done lately.
1880s Undergarments: Chemise, Corset, Bust Pad, Ruffled Bustle Pad, and Petticoat

Felt very accomplished in making all of these. Not pictured is the little ruffled panel that I made to button on my Edwardian petticoat that I wore underneath. This corset is pretty and kinda fancy (gives a very curvy shape) and fits almost just right, but I still need to finish the flossing on it and want to make a new corset this year that is more comfortable and fits exactly right.

See the rest here! )

Altogether about 12 individual items. Not too shabby and definitely a productive year for me. My 2015 goals were to:

  1. Make clothes to wear over historical undergarments

  2. Focus on fit

  3. Make accessories

  4. Use the stash

  5. Figure out hair

I definitely made clothes, 3 outfits/dresses! I am pretty happy with the fit on all of the things I made, although there are a couple of small tweaks that I can and will make in the future. Did better on accessories for some things, although still weak in the hat department. All 3 outifts used stash fabrics (print cotton, green silk, purple synthetic, black chiffon). Hair was OK, but nothing to brag about. Mostly curling and some braids. Having bangs was definitely key with all the bustle stuff I was doing.

My goals for 2016 are looking pretty similar. I want more clothes, especially since I have so many undergarments now, although some more are on the list. Fit will always be a priority with me and something that can always be worked on. I want more comfort (range of movement in arms, waist placement) and I know how to do that, so I can put it into work this year. More accessories, for sure, especially hats but also a couple of other things that are on the docket. I got a bunch of straw hats for Christmas that I can cut up and take apart to make new hats! I bought a lot of fabric this year, so next year needs to be about using them! (A problem you can all sympathise with, I know.) Hair, well mine's getting longer, so some styles should be easier. Also, I have Kendra's 18th Hairstyling book, so that may come into play some time.

Whew! So that was sewing in 2015!
mala_14: (iris)
So I took a bunch of pictures of it all as it stands so far. Mostly my 1880s undergarments, but also an unhemmed skirt. The petticoat I'm wearing under my ruffled bustle pad is my Edwardian one. It's narrow (like Natural Form) but gives a little more volume than just one petticoat. I really like the ruffled bustle pad. Add a bit of extra junk in the trunk and stops the skirts from collapsing, but isn't as pronnounced as the shelf-like late bustle.
SO many pictures )
I think the skirt might be a bit too long in the back, but it wouldn't be if I was wearing heels. I have no idea what shoes I'll wear with this, but I think I'll leave it as is because I'm lazy and will probably have heeled shoes for it. I also took at hint from [livejournal.com profile] jenthompson and added an elastic to hold together the back of the skirt. Gives the right narrow shape in front. I'm pretty happy with how this is shaping up so far. :)
mala_14: (iris)
As promised, pictures! (The stack of books you can see on the piano bench is just one of many being used for my thesis monster. ;p)
P1010802
This chemise is made from cotton lawn from Dharma Trading. Not nearly as soft as the combed cotton lawn, it's still nice and lightweight with a smooth, slightly crisp hand. It also holds a crease very nicely, which was helpful when I was doing the rolled hems.
P1010804
Super close-up of my handsewing. Rolled hem and whipstitched lace. (For scale, the ribbon is 1/16 inch.)
Next up, a corset to wear over it! And a petticoat!
mala_14: (iris)
My first finished project of 2015 is my 1880s chemise. I just finished threading the ribbon through the lace. Pictures are forthcoming. :)
mala_14: (iris)
I spent a lot of 2014 trying out new techniques like handsewn buttonholes and bust padding. I'd like to continue that trend, but I also have a couple of other goals that I'd like to accomplish in 2015:

  1. Be productive and make something to wear. No more just making undergarments! My focus is on making things to wear over them. Complete outfits!

  2. Focus on fit. I'm getting really into pattern drafting and fit. It's so darn interesting! Also, I won't want to wear any of the stuff I make if it doesn't fit well. So this is important!

  3. Make accessories. Accessories are really what turn costumes into clothing. They make them look real. I want this!

  4. Use the stash. I want ALL the silks and wools and sheer cottons, but I do already have a pretty good stash of fabric. I need to try and use up some of it before I go crazy adding things to it. Being more productive should help with this.

  5. Figure out hair. Pretty much the same as #2. I'm thinking I need to get my bangs trimmed good this year with all the bustle stuff I want to wear. I also need a hairpiece or two.

I think these are all doable goals. I do have a list of "must sew" items as well as an ever-changing, ever-expanding list of "potential" projects, but these are the real goals. The "must sew's" are mostly 1880s things for CoCo, so nothing you haven't already seen me blathering on about. :p

In other news, I was having a grand ol' time whipstitching the lace onto my chemise with teeny-tiny stitches when I realized that the piece of lace I was using wasn't long enough to go all the way around the neckline. I figured that 1 metre would be enough. I was wrong. I'd already sewn nearly a quarter of the way around, so there was no way I was going to remove that. I have more lace so there will now be a seam in the lace at CB and one of the shoulder seams. All I have to say is, this would never have happened if the lady who cut my lace at the fabric store had known what deals were going on. Then I would have got all 3 metres continuous instead of in 2 pieces when she found out the mistake. The other thing I have to say is, Don't Be Stupid! Measure!

I think I also figured out my HSM Blue challenge. I'm going to paint a fan for my Gala gown with some sort of mermaid-related picture. Water is blue, so it'll have blue in it. Problem solved! :)
mala_14: (iris)
Happy New Year Friends! I know some of you had a tough 2014. I hope that 2015 is much better and that all of my friends have a happy and healthy year! I also look forward to meeting a bunch of you in 2015! :)

Also, not going to get the chemise done in 2014. So close though! Just the lace is left and I decided to put it on the neckline only. The armholes are kinda small and I don't really want lace bothering my armpit. :p
mala_14: (iris)
I got the seams sewn and felled. I also did a rolled hem on the neck. I still need to do the armholes. I think I'll machine sew the bottom hem. Then just the lace. Good thing there's a hockey game on tomorrow! Sports are good to sew during. Well, not really, because it's hard to see both, but usually sports games are long with nothing else to do during commercials and breaks.
mala_14: (iris)
I got my chemise cut out. Planning on sewing the seams today, seeing how it fits and maybe doing the rolled hems on the neckline and armholes. Then I'll need to sew on the lace, probably by whipstitching. I'm still hoping I will get it done before the end of the year and then you will see it as part of the 2014 round-up. I'm looking forward to getting that together. :)

Little House group looks like it's coming together. [livejournal.com profile] ashamanja_babu is in and [livejournal.com profile] jenthompson is also possibly in!

Any thoughts on when people are wearing Game of Thrones? I'm slowly trying to figure out what to wear when and to sort out any resulting holes.
mala_14: (iris)
I drafted up the narrow shoulders chemise pattern from Fashions of the Gilded Age Vol. 1 omitting the little sleeves. It was pretty big though and there's no way it would have fit on my shoulders, so I took off a couple inches at the CF/CB. I also had to enlarge the armhole. I got several yards of cotton lawn for Christmas, so I am using that for my Victorian undies instead of the 90" wide muslin I bought at Joann's. That will probably still become petticoats of various kinds, but I think the lawn will make a nicer chemise and top petticoat for this project. The lawn is currently in the dryer.

Speaking of Christmas, I got some other awesome costume-y things besides the lawn. I got Fashions of the Gilded Age Vol. 2 which looks like it's going to be handy for figuring out my two overskirts. I also got wooden button moulds which will likely become buttons for spencers or an 18th century waistcoat, or possibly both, whenever I get around to such things. And lastly, I got a couple of gift certificates for the local chain fabric store. I am totally going to buy tons of metres of that polyester faux silk. I think one may be a match for some synthetic satin I have which would make a pretty cool 1890s dress. (I need to take a swatch and find out.) Other colours I am eyeing are a coppery brown and a sort of slate blue-green. It's hard to pass up $4/metre. Just nobody do a burn test on me! ;p
mala_14: (iris)
So busy! So many things! Holiday socializing. Present-buying. Thesis-writing. Grad school applications. Yeah, it's nuts. But I'm getting through it. Or trying to. And I got to see some old friends yesterday which was really fun.

Obviously sewing is very slow. I finished making my apportioning ruler. Nothing to write home about. ;p Still need to wash my white cotton. I also decided that my new 1880s corset will be lavender, not teal. I'm not sure why but I kept picturing it in that colour, so that's how it'll be!
mala_14: (iris)
I made a sausage, pumpkin, and cauliflower soup today a la [livejournal.com profile] starlightmasque. I even topped it with parmesan cheese and crispy, fried onions. Delish! Thanks for the kitchen inspiration!

I'm feeling better. This cough is still hanging on, but mostly alright other than that.

I did some sewing yesterday, sort of. I'm not really feeling up to figuring out a corset, but I'm pretty sure I can get a chemise made by the end of the year. I don't really have access to a photocopier at the moment, so I'm copying out the apportioning scale from Fashions of the Gilded Age by Frances Grimble by hand on some long strips of paper. I made the strips, taped them together, and marked the ticks (while watching the fantastic noir Out of the Past!). I had to stop at that point because the boyfriend was coming over. Once I get all the numbers on there I'll be good to go on scaling up a chemise pattern (or any other pattern I take a fancy to). The one I want to use is, I believe, the narrow shoulders one with small sleeves. It's the second one in the book. But I'm going to leave off the sleeves. Should be a nice quick project!

Reminds me, I need to pre-wash my cotton.
mala_14: (Margaery)
I got the jacket all together with the collar and everything. I think I made the collar a bit too stiff, but it's ok. All that's left is hemming the sleeves and adding the closures. Tomorrow I am going to get back to my Tyrell costume so I can finish that off. I need to make the shoulder pieces. For this I need to:

  1. make the pattern

  2. dye the fabric

  3. cut out the pieces: lining and velveteen

  4. interface the lining

  5. sew pieces together

  6. sew to bodice

Not too bad and I'm pretty sure I can get it done by Friday. *fingers crossed*

My next project is going to be some Victorian/bustle stuff. I should really finish my Regency stays, but I'm feeling meh about them at the moment and I just bought a bunch of buttons for Victorian bodices (see here and here). Best case scenario, I can make all the underpinnings before the end of the year. This includes: corset, chemise, ruffled petticoat, and plain petticoat. I conveniently already have a bustle pad, so that's good. And getting back to corset making should be fun. I think I'm going to try using all spiral boning, a la [livejournal.com profile] the_aristocat. I find that the flat steels at CB are usually uncomfortable and twist a bit, probably because I have a swayback. Thoughts?

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