mala_14: (Default)
Finally got my silk skirt finished (minus optional flounce), ie. it is totally wearable. It has a broadcloth hem facing that nicely weighs down the hem. And I added rings to the inside to bustle up the train and I tried it on and it actually works. So good stuff there. I wanted to get to patterning the bodice today, but I don't think I have time. I'm using the same base pattern that I used for my 1867 print dress, but with alterations, partly because the 1867 bodice didn't have a perfect fit (just good enough for the moment) and because the top needs changing to a ballgown bodice neckline. So that is on the docket for tomorrow, pattern and mock-up and, if I work quickly enough, cutting out the silk bodice and lining.


Oct. 20th, 2016 04:16 pm
mala_14: (1882 Little Mermaid)
My 1867 print dress is just about done. I made a collar and cuffs the other day and got them tacked on to the dress yesterday. The only thing left is hooks and eyes. I think I am going to do hooks with thread eyes. I gave up on the idea of overcasting the armscye seam allowances because the piping makes it kind of weird and I don't want to have to deal with it. So yeah, just hooks and eyes left.

I just cast on 103 stitches for my nubia/Canadian cloud. I have the Jamieson and Smith Shetland Supreme 2-ply laceweight and am using size 7/4.5mm needles. So far I've knitted one row. I think I am going to do a 4 row pattern: 3 rows of knit and 1 row of yarn over-knit 2 together. I tried some samples of just Knit and YO,K2tog, but I think it was too holey for the larger needles. I was also trying out some even larger needles and thought it just looked too open-weave-y. I think these ones are big enough.

Since the 1867 dress is so close to being finished and today is the day I don't have to go to school, I am about to head off to cut out my 1883 green velveteen bodice. I am so ready to be working on something new. This print dress has taken forever. I am hoping the velveteen bodice won't take too long, especially since I already have my tried and true 1880 bodice pattern! I'm going to shorten the back about 1/2" to get rid of the slight wrinkles that I've been having with it. Maybe I can even get it done by November! (HA, let's not get carried away. ;p)
mala_14: (1882 Little Mermaid)
I put on my chemise, corset, hoop, gored 1890s petticoat, and tucked petticoat, and then my print dress to mark the hem. My mom helped me by pinning up the hem. So that's done. Now it needs a facing, which means I need to find something to make a facing out of. Anyways, the point of listing all the undergarments was that I had totally forgotten about my tucked petticoat, but it makes a really nice over-hoop layer. It's all rectangles, so it adds bit more fullness all around, which I think looks right. I may have spent a few hours looking at photos c.1865-1875 to figure out skirt silhouettes and how to adjust my hoop to make it work for early bustle so that I don't have to make a bustle just yet.

Upon further reflection, I've decided that I didn't distribute the skirt properly when attaching it to the waistband, so it looks a bit skimpy over the back when worn with the hoop. But not enough that I'm going to redo it. I'm just noting it so that I remember for future reference.

Ok, I'm also super sniffly/running nose/sneezy. So I wasn't actually very productive on sewing today. But slowly things are getting done.
mala_14: (1882 Little Mermaid)
It still needs a hem and hooks/eyes. And I need to unpick some of the stitching attaching the skirt to the waistband and redo it because I didn't overlap properly for the opening in the skirt, so it gapes a bit. Annoying, but shouldn't take too long. One of my classes has videos of storytelling to listen to instead of books to read, and one of the benefits of that is that I can get handsewing or knitting done during those hours. It's great! Anyways, here's the bodice (which is a bit too long in the back, something I need to fix on my future Victorian stuff) with skirt attached. I knife pleated the front/sides and cartridge pleated the back of the skirt and then whipped the skirt to the waistband (as per the advice I got on The Sewing Academy).
mala_14: (1882 Little Mermaid)

  • school, lots of school: classes, homework, grant applications, conference proposals, meetings, workshops

  • minimal amounts of sewing, but still sewing!, the skirt for my 1867 print dress is sewn together with pockets

  • cooking, including making homemade granola bars for school snacks

  • hanging out with friends and family, bonfire the other night with marshmallow roasting, little cousin's 14th birthday yesterday with lots of cake

  • got paid so I finally bought yarn for my nubia/Canadian cloud!, Jamieson and Smith's Shetland Supreme laceweight 2-ply in white from Sheeps Ahoy (who had it back in stock again)

Ok, off to print some things for school and make granola bars.
mala_14: (1882 Little Mermaid)
Busy and productive day today. I made lasagna for dinner and am looking forward to eating it. :) I took the dog out for a short walk. I got some homework done. And I finished some edits for my funding application proposal because we are having a workshop on them tomorrow. Still to do: machine sew the skirt of my 1867 print dress together, probably after dinner.

Speaking of my 1867 dress, here's what it looks like right now. I think the sleeves are better than they were before. Thanks for all the advice! I ended up reshaping the curve of the elbow so that it was less curved, thus less fabric in the elbow. I also took in the sleevehead a bit. And I rotated the sleeve forward. So now the sleeves are have an acceptable level of wrinkle.
You can also (sort of) see the antique china buttons I got for this dress from Treadle Yard Goods in St. Paul, MN. I think they were a good choice.


Sep. 16th, 2016 10:21 pm
mala_14: (1882 Little Mermaid)
I've been remiss in posting lately. Things have been busy with school and getting back into schedule. Also, last night I felt like I had a cold (crazy running nose and tons of sneezing) and today those symptoms are gone but I feel like I have bad chest congestion. So I'm not sure if I'm getting a cold or getting over a cold or what.

I've managed to put in a bit of sewing time and even took pictures, but they're sitting on my camera instead of here. I cut out my skirt yesterday for my print dress, so I can add it to my almost-finished bodice. The sleeves were removed, adjusted, and re-set. The seam allowances for the armholes need overcasting and the waistband needs finishing, but other than that the bodice is complete.

I guess that's about it for now. I'm heading to bed early and going to try and get lots of homework done this weekend.


Sep. 8th, 2016 08:46 pm
mala_14: (1882 Little Mermaid)
Well, my 1867 print dress might not have a skirt and the sleeves might be messed up, but it has closures! I just finished doing all the buttons and buttonholes. So next time I try it on to fix the sleeves, I won't have to pin myself into it. :)

Hoping to reset one sleeve tomorrow, another sleeve on Sunday, then cut out the skirt on Monday, assemble it on Tuesday, hem it on Wednesday, and add the hooks to the waistband on Thursday. Then it'll be all done! I just need to be disciplined.


Aug. 31st, 2016 10:47 pm
mala_14: (1882 Little Mermaid)
I still need to blog about the second part of my trip, but taking a break to blog about sewing instead. Because I have sleevils, of course! And need some advice. The bodice overall is good, although I managed to make it a bit too small in the bust. Luckily, cotton is forgiving and has a bit of stretch and it should be fine with the buttons. The other minor problem is that I have wrinkles from the back of the neck over the shoulder. The sleeve gets rid of some of it. I figured out that I shaped the shoulder a bit wrong and the front is not quitle long enough and the back is a bit too long at the top, so I fixed all those things on my master pattern, but am willing to let them slide on this functional, non-fancy cotton dress. What I can't figure out is the sleeves.
What is up with that big crease from the elbow up?! Also the wrinkling at the front of the arm? And a bunch of wrinkles in the bottom sleeve piece under my arm? Help please!

I am OK with some wrinkling in the back of the underarm like you see in the shot of the back because that is just ease for movement. (I can totally touch my head in these sleeves!) I'll probably move the armscye out a bit on my master pattern so the sleeve is sitting farther out there. I'm going to let these sleeves be, because they are functional and I handsewed that bugger in, but I want to figure out the weird wrinkles for my next dress with this pattern which will be an ivory wool polonaise with scallops bound in black satin, ie. a nice dress that I want to fit right.

The piping around the armscye looks good at least. Bias! :)

Moving on

Jan. 4th, 2016 09:59 pm
mala_14: (1882 Little Mermaid)
Got my apartment stuff sorted out (keys on the way to me and bill paid) and thinking about other things, like what is on the sewing docket for the coming year. I've mentioned my projects before but I'm kind of sad that all of my upcoming projects are already decided. I like it being a bit open-ended. But since the reason for these projects being determined is the fact that I have specific things to wear these to, it's not really a bad thing. So here are the projects and their different elements, just to keep it organized:

1. 1895 ensemble: petticoat, corset cover, skirt, blouse, bow tie, straw boater, (jacket?)
2. 2 baby quilts
3. 1867 outfit: corset, crinoline, petticoat, (chemise?), print dress, hat, shawl
4. 1883 plaid kilted outfit: kilted underskirt, overskirt, velveteen bodice (I hope 1m is enough for this, if now, I have a cotton-silk suiting I could dye green that would work), (collar?), (cuffs?)
5. 1883 outerwear: coat, faux fur short cape, faux fur muff, faux fur hat, nubia
6. Modern: grey shorts

It's a lot of items for me to make in a year, but last year I made 3 ensembles/dresses for Costume College, so I think I can get it done. And when these are finished, I have some others that I want to get done after (maybe for the Francaise Dinner or Costume College in 2017).

1. Painted 1780s gown: bum pad, petticoat, petticoat, gown, wig, cap/hat
2. Lilac silk and cream net 1871 evening gown: petticoat, skirt, overskirt, bodice
3. 1816 ensemble: print dress or shortgown/skirt combo, cap/hat, apron, ruff/chemisette
4. 1790 riding habit: shirt, cravat, petticoat, waistcoat, jacket, hat
OR 4. 1908 ensemble: net guimpe, green jumper dress, (hat?)
OR 4. 1920s one-hour dress: lavender polka dot day dress, hat
OR 4. Yellow linen-rayon 1930s/40s something
OR 4. 1916 outfit: petticoat, corset cover, striped skirt, blouse, hat
OR 4. 1869 burnt orange dress: dress, overdress,
5. Modern: pants, (blouse?), (wool-cashmere blazer?) (birds voile dress?)

Other potential sewing )
mala_14: (1882 Little Mermaid)
The Dreamstress has the HSM 2016 challenges posted. I may be participating in this one. I have so many things that need sewing this year. Surely, I can make them fit the challenges.

January - Procastination: the petticoat, corset cover, and skirt for my 1895 ensemble
February - Tucks & Pleating: 1895 shirtwaist will have tucks to fit the front shoulder
March - Protection: maybe a hat? or I'll have my 1864 knitted shawl finished, or the jacket for the 1895 ensemble
April - Gender-Bender: if I have time to make the jacket for my 1895 ensemble, or the hat which will likely be a straw boater, or the bow tie I'm planning on having for this outfit
May - Holes: a lacy cloud/nubia? (unlikely that I'd get all 3 yards knitted by this time though), 1860s corset?
June - Travel: 1790s straw hat?
July - Monochrome: 1860s corset or crinoline or petticoat, all will be white
August - Pattern: 1867 cotton print dress
September - Historicism: 1867 bonnet (lots of these bonnets have names like Marie Antoinette and Pompadour)
October - Heroes: 1883 Laura Ingalls-style bustle dress with plaid kilted skirt and velveteen bodice (plaid bustle always makes me think of the later Little House books)
November - Red: Does maroon count as red? Cuz then it'll be my bustle coat. If not, then no idea
December - Special Occasion: faux fur cape, hat, and muff

Obviously, I'll have to figure out some of these when the time comes. I seem to have 3 major ensembles on the schedule for this year: 1895, 1867, and 1883. Other things that need sewing: 2 baby quilts. Maybe some modern clothes. Other things I'd like to work on, but probably won't get to: 18th century and late-Regency stuff.
mala_14: (1882 Little Mermaid)
I have a variety of things that I want to sew in the coming year and a half. Some of them have deadlines or events, which is good for making sure I get things done. I'm excited about getting to try new eras as well as having eras that I can now do fairly comfortably. I still need to make more underthings, which is sort of a downer, but I am looking forward to having them in the wardrobe. So here are the projects that you should be seeing in the not-too-distant future:

Must sew:

  • 1895 Tailor-made Gown for a conference presentation in April: drawers, petticoat, corset cover, shirtwaist, skirt, jacket, hat (I have most of the supplies for this one, after a trip to the fabric store today. Still need something for the hat and maybe other small things that I will figure out as I go along.)

  • 1867 Cotton Print for living history celebrations for the 150th anniversary of Confederation: corset, hoop, petticoat, petticoat, dress, shawl, bonnet (I need all kinds of things for this one, like all the supplies for the hoop, busk, cotton for the petticoats, buttons, and bonnet supplies.)

  • 1883 Little House Winter Dress: kilted skirt, overskirt, bodice (Yay for having all the correct undies for this! I am using my blue and green brushed cotton plaid for the skirts and my green dyed velveteen which burn testing makes me think is cotton for the bodice. The velveteen was originally supposed to be for my GoT Tyrell outfit. I wanted black velveteen for this project, but I have the green on hand and it matches, so it's getting used. Also need buttons.)

  • 1883 Little House Winter Outerwear: coat, cape, muff (I can use the burgundy wool I got upsold on in London to make the coat, with a hood I think. Need to get some faux fur for a cape and muff, as well as whatever else that will require.)

  • 2 Baby Quilts for friends' babies being born at the end of August and early December

Bonus sewing or projects that may also appear in the coming year or so:

  • 1820 Blue Print for living history: shortgown and petticoat a la [ profile] koshka_the_cat or a morning gown, chemisette, cap (Living history does lots of Regency era, so would be useful to have this, especially now that I have my quick 'n' dirty stays. Have all the supplies for this.)

  • 1790 Riding Habit: shirt, skirt, waistcoat, jacket (Now that I know how to make death head buttons, I can make buttons for this. Have all the other materials as well as correct undies.)

  • 1916 Ensemble for living history celebration of 100th anniversary of women's suffrage in Manitoba: skirt, shirtwaist (I have fabric and the undies for this.)

  • 1780 Painted Gown: stays, bumpad, petticoat, skirt, gown (I have almost all the stuff for this. Would be very labour intensive project with all the painting. No real occasion to wear though. Maybe for Quebec City?)

  • 1870s Little House Winter Dress: petticoat, skirt, overskit, bodice, mantle (I have some possible fabrics for this, but would still need to buy more to really make it. Definitely a maybe.)

  • 1950s playsuit: shorts, skirt, top (I have all the stuff for this, but not really an occasion. Except for the shorts; I need more and better shorts in my life.)

  • Retro Yellow Dot Sundress (I have all the stuff for this, minus zipper. For wearing in regular life.)

  • (Modern) Birds Voile Sundress (I have all the stuff for this, minus zipper. For wearing in regular life.)

  • Smooth Sailing Trousers (I have some plum plaid that I could make a pretty awesome pair of trousers out of. For wearing in regular life.)

  • 1779 Striped Polonaise: same underthings as 1780 Painted Gown, skirt, polonaise (I have the striped silk but need lots of silk organza for this to make it froofy. No real occasion to wear though. Maybe for Quebec City?)

  • 1871 Lavender Silk and Cream Net Gown: petticoat, skirt, overskirt, dinner bodice, ballgown bodice (I have the lavender silk but need lots of cotton net for this. No real occasion to wear though. But I want something FROOFY!)

I have fabric for other projects that are languishing in the stash, but these ones make the (not-so-)short-list either because I have an occasion for them or because I have all the supplies (or because I just got the fabric for them and am thus super excited about them because they're new and shiny!). Links go to Pinterest boards.

Whew! That's enough!
mala_14: (iris)
A question for those in the know: what separates later 1860s cotton print dresses from earlier ones? With the 150th birthday of Canada coming up, my living history group is delving into the 1860s. The exact year is 1867.

I've seen a lot of pictures of ones that look, to my eye anyways, decidedly early 1860s/Civil War era, but nothing that is definitively the latter part of the decade. Most seem to feature gathered (as opposed to darted) bodices and gathered or gauged skirts. I assume that earlier dresses have bigger sleeves (bishop sleeves or coat sleeves that are wider around the elbow) and have skirts that are fuller in the front with gathers, while later dresses would have the narrower sleeves and flatter fronts (pleats or flat) that were in fashion. But all this is somewhat conjectured. Any one have facts?

(Mourning Dress ca.1867 from the Met)


mala_14: (Default)

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